Easygoing tropical-fruited version of brewers’ IPA bypasses stylish bold bittering for subtler dry profile. Serene sweet ‘n sour mango, papaya and passionfruit adjuncts gain lemony pineapple, grapefruit and orange spritz over moderately bitter piney hop dankness. Summery island getaway delight.
On tap at Amazing Grapes, rich wee heavy subtly aged in Scotch barrels (10% ABV) blends smoky brown chocolate malting with vanilla-spiced sweetness, subsidiary dried fruiting and dewy cellar-like mustiness.
On tap at Taphouse 15, dry German rye malting picks up citrus bittering and tempered whiskey daub for astringent ESB-like medium body.
On tap at Growler & Gill, sweet malt-spiced tingle meets dank compost salting of ‘seasonal standard’ spice ale. Previous so-called ‘Swedish Glogg’ retained firmer orange-peeled cardamom, cinnamon, clove and ginger root spicing while avoiding cat urine smidge.
Pleasurable saison settles softly on the tongue with spritzy lemon zest and orange-spiced lemon meringue sweetness whisked away by herbal white-peppered salting above earthy rye-oats-spelt spine. Alongside the citric surplus, green apple tartness and mild banana ripeness pervade the rustic farmhouse Belgian yeast.
On tap at Poor Henry’s, well-designed collaboration with Italy’s Birra Toccalmatto brings mineral-grained dried oats rusticity to the fore alongside brettanomyces-soured yellow grapefruit pith tartness. Salty herbal notion sharpens the finishing lemon twang.
On tap at Taphouse 15, “East meets West” as Chinese Jing Wei Fu Black tea dryness takes on New York Chinook hop woodiness, sour lemony grapefruit tartness and subtle house ale yeast, pikcing up grassy earthiness at the faded citrus finish.
On tap at Taphouse 15, clean oats-dried pale ale brings dark-spiced fennel subtleties and teensy herbal nip to mild grassy hop bittering.
On tap at Growler & Gill, ‘soft’ yellow glowed pale ale retains lemon-dropped peach, yellow grapefruit, mandarin orange and mango juicing plus floral-spiced sugaring and lemongrass tea snip above pale malt base. Simple splendor rewardingly delivered.
On tap at Poor Henry’s, sturdy moderate-bodied bohemian lager (named after hockey star Jaromir Jagr) contrasts clean-watered corn sugaring and bready pilsner malting against lightly soured grassy-hopped orange and grapefruit tartness as well as placid herbal notions for crisp refreshment.
FLORIDA, NEW YORK
Inside an inconspicuous large grey shed behind a car wash in the rustic village of Florida, New York, GLENMERE BREWING COMPANY came into existence during July ’16. Located within a few miles of Warwick beer pub haven, Eddie’s Roadhouse, and respected garden center, Pennings Farm, Glenmere’s reliable logo “Elements Of The Craft” represents co-owner/brewmaster Michael Sandor’s sound philosophy of proving ‘the hallmark of all beer should be good drinkability and likability,’ preferably from locally sourced ingredients.
A lifelong local Orange County native, Sandor became active in the homebrew community and judged brewing competitions before starting his own business plan with partner Fred Mehler. Some of his favorite stylistic offerings are Imperial Stouts, German Lagers and dunkelweizens.
Although there’s too much random beer info online these days, he still appreciates reading (now-deceased) premier beer enthusiast Michael Jackson’s stuff. Not wanting to get stuck making only flagship beers from his pristine stainless steel 15 barrel system, Sandor prefers to allow a ‘nice rotation’ of diverse brews to gain exposure with the local denizens now populating Glenmere’s barrel-topped bench and stool tasting room.
“The area was changing and people’s tastes were also changing,” Sandor confides as he pours four goblet samplers for me this cold February ’16 Saturday afternoon. “Millennials always want the next thing. But it’s challenging. 70% of what they purchase is stuff they never had before. Most recipes are developed, then there are adjustments. But ultimately, it’s worked in our favor. We’re always onto something else.”
Presently, Glenmere’s fermenting an English Style Strong Ale as well as readying a smoked porter and a stout. As of February ’17, they are self-distributing within New York State.
Sandor says, “Because there are so many India Pale Ales available, I haven’t concentrated on that style. A large percent of the craft beer market are IPA’s and seasonals. Once people get past the bitterness, they build a comfort level for IPA’s. It’s my favorite hangover style for the morning after.”
Nevertheless, one of Glenmere’s finest offerings, Lucid Dragon, is a robust IPA loading lemony orange-peeled grapefruit, pineapple, mango, tangerine, peach and guava tropicalia as well as subtle sugar spicing and floral perfuming atop biscuity Maris Otter malts, leaving a mildly dank piney hop bittering upon the zesty fruitful finish.
Softer palates will appreciate The S.A.G.A. Amber Ale, a classic well-balanced moderation with a sprinkling of tangy IPA-like fruiting (grapefruit, orange, mango, pineapple, tangerine, clementine) atop woody dry-hopped bittering and caramel-spiced malting.
Perhaps Glenmere’s most admired brew yet, boldly dark-roasted Pennings Brown Ale, provides a nutty chocolate decadence so undeniable it won a Gold Medal in Portland, Oregon’s Craft Beer Show.
My personal fave may’ve been richly resilient Wicked Witch Stout, where dark-roasted cola-walnut-hazelnut overtones and black chocolate syruping gain ‘deciduous black raspberry’ rasps along with pureed blackberry, strawberry and blueberry subsidies.
It’s also worth mentioning the live acoustic showcases that take place once in awhile.
The New York landscape for brewers has never been better. And Glenmere’s entrepreneurial mavens prove there’s still room for more growth. Cheers!
glenmerebrewingco.com
On tap at Sogo Hibachi Grill, creamy milk-sugared coffee ground intensity gains subtle fennel, licorice and anise undertones as well as lightly embittered yellow grapefruit and lemon rind tartness. Tertiary cinnamon toast, anisette and chocolate biscotti illusions deepen sweet side of “Golden Imperial Coffee Cream Ale” while acidic bitter coffee aftertaste lingers on.
