On tap at Twisted Elm, deeply penetrating slow sipper (with heady 17% alcohol volume/ 17 malts/ 17 hops) places molasses-sugared brown chocolate sweetness against dry plum-wined bourbon-burgundy-sherry scurry. Dark rum, sugared fig, black cherry and candied apple illusions enrich syrupy molasses malting. A hint of vanilla found at rich mocha-fruited finish.
On tap at Twisted Elm, abstruse hybrid blends treacly molasses with smoky chocolate malts and sharp-hopped dried fruiting (staying richer than typically subtler Innis & Gunn fare). In the backdrop, plum-dried raisin puree, black cherry and purple grape illusions battle back whiskey-sugared dark rum spicing. Ephemeral coffee, vanilla and caramel undertones deepen unspecific mocha finish.
Indistinctly streamlined IPA with muddled cardboard malting and diacetyl buttering affecting barren floral-spiced fruiting. Sour lemon and grapefruit tones contrast ripe apple sweetness above caramel malt sugaring, but desultory hop astringency depletes any forward momentum.
Polite coriander-spiced lemon peel tingle and sweet orange peel briskness ride above light white wheat spine. Carbolic Seltzer fizz gobbles up minimal flavor profile. An appealing lightweight.
Unspecific light-bodied fluff meshes soft caramel malt creaming with mild phenol hop spicing. Dull yellow-orange fruiting ransacks buttery wheat cracker spine.
Vague easygoing moderation stays smooth but unfulfilled. Bland bready malts evaporate alongside astringent hop-spiced fizzle. Meager orange-grapefruit snip wavers.
MANHATTAN, NEW YORK
Located directly across 8th Avenue’s Port Authority one block from Madison Square Garden in midtown Manhattan’s Hells Kitchen section, BEER AUTHORITY opened April 2012. Inside a spacey two-storey golden browned corner spot, this emblematic beer-centric sportsbar gained initial acceptance from true beer geeks as well as casual businessmen and curious tourists.
Initially visited in the late afternoon during November ’13, Beer Authority’s bountiful brewery banners cover nearly every wall and crevice. Its glass-windowed second floor illuminates the large-lettered gold-on-brown signpost glistens upon arrival. And a spacious open-air rooftop bar with bright blue parasols adds to the overall magnificience of this prime urban hotspot.
Upon entrance, a dimunitive ground level 8-seat bar with antique bronze ceiling tiles, fine wood-shelved liquor, 16 tap handles (of familiar craft beers) and large-screen TV welcomes patrons. Chimay, Rogue and Sixpoint banners proudly display the walkway to the sizable second floor.
A massive oak-furnished, beige-sided, duct-exposed expanse with 20 stooled dinner tables cornering the well-kept 20-seat inner-walled bar and TV’s at every conceivable angle bedecking the beer-bannered wall of fame (featuring Flying Dog, Green Flash, Smuttynose, Founders, etc.), its impressive Stone Brewing murel truly seals the deal.
At the bar, two opposing refrigeration units center the two brass tap mounts (pouring 60-plus tapped beers) and a blue Weihenstafaner flag hangs over the prominent Beer Authority NYC mirror. Formidable red and white wines are available on the Brit-twisted pub-fared menu (Roasted Vegetable and Lentil Shepherds Pie; Beef Pot Pie; Lamb Shepherd Pie; Roasted Wild Boar Sausage). “The Authority,” a petite filet mignon with shallot-buttered onions, deserves to be tried.
As night falls, I enjoy one obtuse South American stout and three unconventional Midwest pale bodies (fully reviewed in Beer Index). Out of Brazil, Guanabara Imperial Stout allowed sour-fruited burgundy to upstage expectant brown chocolate creaming. Underwhelming, perhaps, but slightly intriguing.
While Illinois-bound Goose Island Lolita brought vinous raspberry-soured white grape tartness to the fore, Michigan’s Kuhnhenn showed off sweet and sour sides. Kuhnhenn Fluffer Gone Wild (a brettanomyces-funked IPA with sour Gose-like coriander salting dabbing herbal lemon zest) and White Devil (a mellow vanilla-sugared banana bomb with cane-sugared sweetener).
On tap at Beer Authority, mellow Imperial White Ale (a.k.a. Weiss Teufel) softly layers lemony yellow-caked vanilla and cane-sugared bruised banana sweetness over delicate white wheat spine. Banana bread, banana liqueur and banana daiquiri nuances dance across the tongue alongside subtle peach, apricot and nectarine whims.
On tap at Beer Authority, appealing limited edition brettanomyces-soured India Pale Ale spreads gose-like coriander salting across wafting lemon zest tartness and gentle mineral-grained watering. Mouth-puckering lemon pit souring picks up tertiary lemongrass herbage and leathery horse-blanketed acridity. A wayward IPA hybrid totally affected by wild yeast funk.
Muskily sharp 2013 version of brettanomyces-soured Belgian-styled wild ale aged in French oak Cabernet Sauvignon barrels features soft-tongued raspberry vinaigrette-like souring over vinous white and green grape tannins. Ancillary oaken cherry tartness, hard cider crisping and dry lemon pucker accomodate raw-honeyed mead spree. Dry white-wined balsamic vinegaring and leathery barnyard funk add further lactic acidity.
Vibrant Imperial Pale Ale based on 2nd Anniversary lager recipe enlivened by judicious pineapple-wafted tropical fruiting. Massive pineapple ripeness receives juicy orange-peeled pink grapefruit tang to juxtapose sharp juniper-hopped bittering and resinous hemp-oiled pining. Sugary crystal malting deepens ancillary mango-guava-peach tropicalia.
Sessionable dry-bodied moderation offers light lemony grapefruit sugaring to mild mineral-grained Cascade hop bittering. Clean Adirondack water crisping freshens daintily herbal citrus florality and raw-honeyed wheat spine.
