Bland medium-bodied pale lager, reminiscent of simple grain-musked Czech or German pilsner, suffers from skunked yeast bittering, corn-oiled astringency and stale bread malting. Dry lemon-peeled bittering fails to ignite lightly metallic finish.
HERTOG JAN WEIZENER
Chaotic witbier from Netherlands proves to be richer, creamier and more flavorful than usual Belgian-styled wheat ales. Sweet-spiced banana, clove, coriander and vanilla illusions lie above sourdough yeast as ginger, ginseng and green tea herbage seeps in. Crisp Seltzer-like carbolic fizz perks up zesty citric-peeled bittering at sinewy fruit-spiced finish.
SMUTTLABS TAKEOVER AT AMBULANCE WORTH INVESTIGATING
Arguably New Hampshire’s best brewer, Portsmouth-originated Smuttynose Brewing has been building a solid reputation since opening in 1994. Now stationed at nearby Hampton, there recent experimental Smuttlabs draughts have found favor with the entire northeast coast. In February, AMBULANCE BREW HOUSE hosted several Smuttlabs elixirs reviewed below:
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: RYE STOUT
On tap at Ambulance, dry stout brings light rye-pumpernickel breading to smoked black chocolate influence, light-roast coffee bittering and molasses-breaded sweetness. Tertiary espresso, walnut and black bread illusions deepen mocha penetration.
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: STRAWBERRY SHORT WEISS
On tap at Ambulance, reserved 3.75%ABV Berliner weisse retains soft-toned strawberry effervescence. Salty coriander fizz prickles soured watermelon, peach and pineapple undertones. Mossy earthen leathering fortifies ultra-dry fruited nature. Up the strawberries, though.
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: SMOKED PEACH SHORT WEISSE
On tap at Ambulance, lactic-soured Berliner weisse camouflages ultra-dried peach tone and smoky white wheat sedation with tart lemon-lime parch. Salty carbolic fizz adds sparkly prickle to delicate white peach niche.
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: GRISETTE COUNTRY TABLE BEER
On tap at Ambulance, soft-toned saison offers sour citric splurge to mineral-watered crisping, grassy hop bittering and wafting floral perfuming. Herbaceous lemon zest crowds the middle, but thin yellow-fruited finish lacks resolve.
SMUTTYNOSE SMUTTLABS: FINKELSTEIN HOPPY LAGER
On tap at Ambulance, wavering Imperial Pale Lager brings IPA-like piney fruiting to grouty citra hop astringency and musky vegetal herbage. Crisp pilsner malting saddles bitter lemon tartness, candied pineapple-strawberry conflux and light fennel snip.
ELYSIAN SPACE DUST IPA
On tap at Ambulance, superb medium-bodied India Pale Ale allows floral sweet-fruited luster to balance bitter citric hop prickle and resinous pine needling. Tropical orange, tangerine, pineapple, mango, peach and guava tang contrasts aggressive lemony grapefruit bittering. Biscuit-y malt spine lightens the bright fruit finish. Bottled version: Sessionable 8.2% ABV IPA brightens tongue with orange-peeled ruby red grapefruit tang, lemony pineapple zest and sweet crystal malting.
ELYSIAN SAVANT IPA
On tap at Ambulance, passive moderate-bodied India Pale Ale provides lemon-soured orange rot and green apple tartness to dry pale malting. Passion-fruited Nelson Sauvin hops and woody Chinook hops combine, allowing herbal-nipped grapefruit, pineapple, mango and guava undertones to penetrate the surface. Resinous hemp snip adds to herbaceous subsidy.
ELYSIAN BIFROST WINTER ALE
On tap at Ambulance, wintry strong ale (7.6% ABV) brings sweet ‘n sour fruiting to pale-malted dryness and earthen hop astringency. Yellow grapefruit, orange rind, pineapple, mango, kiwi, guava and gooseberry illusions pick up light Scotch whiskey cadence.
BLACK HOG COFFEE MILK STOUT
On tap at Ambulance, mildly creamed black malt-driven milk stout dovetails Columbian coffee and roasted espresso bittering into sweet chocolate-roasted lactose sugaring. Full-blown mocha theme receives unexpected peppery respite at dry coffee-milked finish.
