LONG TRAIL HARVEST BARN ALE

On tap at Aidan’s, impenetrable autumn ’14 seasonal never clearly defines ‘brown ale’ status since stylish mocha nuttiness plays possum. Instead, minor molasses-like Vermont maple syrup adjunct barely affects latent dark-roasted chocolate malting and leafy hop oiling. Timid brown-sugared spicing and barren nuttiness lost in a wave of carbolic fluff.

KNEE DEEP MIDNIGHT HOPPYNESS IMPERIAL BLACK RYE IPA

On tap at Blue Ribbon Tavern, excellent hybridized Cascadian Dark Ale overcomes any preconceived notions by adding peat-smoked rye to dark-roasted chocolate malting and resinous hop-charred dried fruiting. Black tea-like pungency, light earthen musk and piney charcoal singe deepen chalky cocoa insistence above moderate orange-peeled grapefruit, pineapple and green grape bittering. Best of class.

KNEE DEEP HOP SHORTAGE TRIPLE IPA

On tap at Ambulance Brew House, well-rounded medium body never gets too bitter – despite its ferocious ‘triple’ declaration. Instead, honey-glazed fruited malts stand toe-to-toe with pronounced Chinook/Centennial piney hop bittering and misty floral perfuming.  Emphatic tangerine, mango, canteloupe, honeydew and melon sweetness plies juicy-fruited tang to bitter grapefruit-peeled orange rind contrast. Nevertheless, iodine-affected ethanol solvency may chase away lighter thirsts.

HORSEHEADS PUMPKIN ALE

On tap at Blue Ribbon Tavern, delightfully sweet autumn seasonal brings pronounced cinnamon-toasted gingerbread likeness to brown-sugared pumpkin pie theme. Sparkly hop pep receives ancillary nutmeg-allspice tingle. Perfect dessert fodder. 2015 bottled version: lemony ginger snap, salty pumpkin seeding and herbal perfumed hops crowd sweet brown-sugared pumpkin pie spicing.

KUKA PUMPKIN PORTER (2014)

On tap at Blue Ribbon Tavern, intriguing autumnal dark ale evenly blends many fine adjuncts. Lightly creamed smoked mocha malting surges against sweet pumpkin-spiced cinnamon and nutmeg persistence. Black grape, raisin and prune conflux serenades subtle macca-rooted chestnut notions at the back end. Mild coffee roast and chalky cocoa dryness reinforce bittersweet chocolate preponderance that never overwhelms sugared pumpkin stead.

AVERY PUMP(KY)N PORTER

Heady bourbon-barreled pumpkin porter (with 17% ABV) makes a convincing argument for best autumnal seasonal ever. Evenly splitting gourd-spiced intrigue with dark-roasted mocha malt creaming, its lovely sweet bourbon warmth completely envelops its indelible entirety. Caramel-burnt black chocolate prominence picks up brown-sugared nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, allspice and anise seasoning to increasingly sweeten the pumpkin puree-sugared midst. Bourbon vanilla, coconut, toffee, bruised banana and maple sap illusions add further depth to fascinating seasonal.