Elegantly contoured moderate-bodied Belgian cuvee delivers marvelous French-wined grape esters to creamy vanilla-sweetened banana daiquiri whir and wildflower-honeyed rum spicing. Buttery Chardonnay warmth lingers beside crystalline lemon-curried saffron and kaffir lime riffs. French Pyronees espelette peppers softly embitter herbal hop slot.
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, brazen full body blasts day-old coffee brashness into oats-flaked charred hop bittering. Black chocolate roast confirms abundant mocha theme and ashen nuttiness details the charcoal-crisped backend with raspy cola nut, hazelnut and walnut illusions.
Casually creamed honeyed oats influence picks up mild IPA-like orange-peeled grapefruit rind briskness to ignite pungently dry-hopped medium body. Subtle wood-lacquered pine needling, sticky hemp-oiled spicing and acrid lemon-seeded souring delicately embitters ancillary mango-papaya-kiwi tropicalia hidden beneath floral citrus finish.
Intringuing, if not wholly original, Imperial India Pale Ale celebrates brewers’ 17th anniversary by utilizing classical pilsner malts and copious German hops to create a smoother, cleaner stylistic flavor profile. Dry-hopped wood lacquering glazes orange-peeled grapefruit, peach and pineapple moderation as well as zesty mango, passion fruit, guava and papaya tropicalia above honeyed rye malts. Ascending alcohol kick scours the frantic fruitful luster and mild perfumed florality.
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, sessionable hop-head moderation offers bitterer hop profile (and twice the IBU’s) than brewers’ Hopnotic. Nevertheless, this 2013 small batch India Pale Ale maintains a welcoming approachability perfect for skeptical fencesitters. Resinous dry-hopped spicing converges with serene orange-peeled grapefruit rind bittering above easygoing grain malting. Wafts of grass trimmings stay upon the nose.
Novel pinkish copper peculiarity takes Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA on a modest journey by adding syrah grape must to the busily fruited mix. Vinous red wining brings sparkling rosé, white zinfandel and tannic cherry subleties to the fore, brightening the original version’s floral-tinged orange rind, grapefruit peel and apricot illusions.
Soothingly fruited Belgian yeast influence splatters white-peppered candi-sugaring across up-front coriander sweetening and wispy orange-peeled lemon zest. Vanilla-creamed banana-clove pleasantries nestled beside waning peach, tangerine and cherry undertones. Light hop astringency confronts corn-liquored tease at delicate citric-spiced finish.
On tap at Taphouse Grill, middling amber lager needs deeper caramel malting, bitterer earthen hops and spicier fruiting to really take off. Nutty maple splurge and honeyed wheat bed turn to cardboard by musty citric-faded finish.
Nebulous passionfruit-infused wheat ale brings vague tropical-fruited tartness to biscuity pale malting, picking up wispy black peppered jalapeno burn to complement light lemon pith bittering and mild orange candied souring. Pulpy passionfruit wisp and evaporative pineapple, guava, plantain, pomegranate and kiwi undertones need bigger push forward to deepen conviction. Musty earthiness, sharp metallic twinge and soapy finish deplete acidic fruitiness.
Thin pinkish-hued moderation regales musky raspberry-soured oaken cherry lambic yeast with vinous lemon-juiced tannic grape dryness and sweet-tart citric candied pucker. Damp-wooded barnyard funk and musty horseblanket rusticity gird overall acridity. Ancillary cranberry-sauced Jolly Rancher watermelon souring fades away.
Inspired by heavy metal vocalist Bruce Dickinson (of Iron Maiden), nominal moderation drapes light caramel malting and hesitant corn-sugared sweetness across mild citric-perfumed Cascade hop bittering. Lemony tea midst ransacked by phenol spicing at biscuity pale-malted bottom.
Conveniently located next to Courtyard By Marroit and La Quinta hotels just off Route 95 in a freestanding brown and gray vintage mill, Warwick-based DOHERTY’S ALE HOUSE opened in January ’13. Serving a remarkably copious 124 tapped craft beers alongside Americana and Cajun-styled cuisine, the roomy barn stable-like wood interior features a spacious central bar (with 3 TV’s and a large ‘Craft Beer’ insignia), several oak booths, seperate left side family dining space, massive exposed pipes and wood-pillared ceiling.
My wife and kids grab a pew near the burnt sienna-hued right wall next to the glass-encased private event room for a Saturday lunch in September ’13. Classic sandwiches, fish ‘n chips, ribs, bacon-wrapped pork chops and burgers fill the menu. We share cheese-dipped pretzel balls before munching down Beer Can Chicken, jambalaya and a muffeletta (with provolone cheese, Genoa salami and capacola). Besides the awesome draught beers, Doherty’s also offers well-selected spirits, original cocktails and Beer Fusions such as Banana Split (Youngs Double Chocolate Stout with Wells Banana Bread), Dirty Hoe (Murphys Stout with Hoegaarden) and Scarlet Begonia (Lindemans Framboise with champagne and orange juice).
I settle on two previously untried libations while consuming the generous food portions. First up, Foolproof King Of The Yahd Imperial IPA brought wood-dried grapefruit rind bittering, tart orange peel briskness and gin-like juniper berry dryness to resinous hop fodder. Caramelized crystal malts contrast the overwhelming bitterness.
Afterwards, Two Roads Roads Mary’s Baby Pumpkin Ale allowed pumpkin puree spicing to saddle plastique gin-soaked boozing and astringent hop sharpness. For contrast, brown-sugared nutmeg, cinnamon and pecan illusions gained sweetness over time.
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Tossed back a few more untried brews during Johnson & Wales Parents weekend, October ’13. Alongside moist beercan chicken (with roasted Brussels sprouts and mashed potatoes), quaffed rye-fruited Smuttynose Rhye IPA and citric-crisped Magic Hat Humdinder Over The Pils (reviewed in Beer Index) while watching shocking upset of New England Patriots at the hands of long-time rivals, the Jets.
Thanks to Doherty’s, Track 84, Shannon View and Dave’s, Warwick has become one of New England’s premier craft beer towns.