Stylistically thin barrel-aged rum spicing and iffy hop-toasted hazelnut flavoring downsize perfectly fine Hazelnut Brown Nectar Ale. Nevertheless, this ‘nutty twist to a European Brown Ale’ succeeds as a soft-toned crossover for lighter tastes dipping their toes into bigger beers (much like Innis & Gunn’s oak-aged subtleties). Hazelnut coffee glint reaches caramel nougat center as brown chocolate, toffee, vanilla and butterscotch illusions reach fruition above fig-soured raisin-prune conflux and caraway-seeded pecan-praline-chestnut nuances. Clean mineral watering abates wispy rum influence.
CAMBRIDGE HOUSE – GRANBY
GRANBY, CONNECTICUT
In a freestanding gray colonial edifice in the rural northern Connecticut town of Granby lies a reliable upscale sportsbar with a fine rotating house beer selection and respectable pub fare. Opened in 2005, CAMBRIDGE HOUSE was originally journeyed by my wife and I in January 2012 during a two-hour afternoon lunch stint.
Entering the sylvan two-storied restaurant-brewery through the back deck rear entrance, a silver-clad painted stallion welcomes patrons to the mid-sized mahogany-furnished first floor space. A rectangular bar (fronting glass-encased brew kettles) serves left side and rear tables as well as the outer perimeter dining area of the attractive public house. Several TV’s surrounding the bar offer full-time sports coverage.
I munched on the Cobb salad with bleu cheese and my wife, Karen, chose the Tomato Florentine pizza. It’s worth noting that over 50 different house beers have been served since Cambridge House originated. And there were six available on my visit.
On the light side, Copper Hill Kolsch retained a crisply clean light-spiced yellow fruiting, straw maize dryness and carbolic Seltzer fizz. Though recommended to lite beer fanatics, all others should skip this and proceed directly to the better options.
A generous dried fruiting eased into the next four offerings.
Glass-sugared fig spicing and earthen gourd gripped trusty ESB.
Apple-spiced sugared fig overlaid the sour nuttiness sidling Pigskin Brown.
Stewed prune, dried cherry and sugar plum embossed Farmer’s Daughter, a fruit-wined Biere De Garde worth a second look.
Fig-soured green raisin and hop-roasted chocolate spicing enveloped Ominous Forecast, a veritable schwarzbier.
Another interesting libation, Stonehenge, an English strong ale, gathered peat moss, cola nut, red grape, sweet potato and smoked malt illusions.
OFFSHORE MENEMSHA CREEK PALE ALE
Well-balanced grain-roasted almond toasting skirts musty fruited tartness to salty oceanic bottom. Light-spiced grapefruit, peach and green apple souring runs roughshod over astringent hop bittering.
OFFSHORE EAST CHOP LIGHTHOUSE ALE
Thar, she blows! Nautical offshore blonde ale lacks depth, character and decent flavor profile. Cornstarch-parched straw wheat astringency devours lemony grapefruit souring to white-breaded sourdough bottom of murky muck. Serve only to lite beer peers.
(SHIPYARD) DOUBLE OLD THUMPER ALE
Assertive 11.2% alcohol ‘double’ Extra Pale Ale with coppery sienna hue seems closer to a strong barleywine with its medicinal red cherry splurge, bourbon-soaked brandy whir and warm cognac tinge. Chewy caramelized vanilla center sweetens bruised orange, sugared fig, candied apple and date illusions (but harsh alcohol-burnt vodka slipstream may put off lighter thirsts). Worthy slow slipper whiskey lovers should take a liking to.
HIGH & MIGHTY XPA
Chameleonic ‘extra’ pale ale not far removed from a summery saison on the fruity end and a German helles bock on the toasted cereal grain side. Boasting ‘English refinement with American swagger,’ its honey wheat sugaring contrasts soured apricot-apple-peach-orange tartness and bittersweet pink grapefruit scamper. Ancillary pineapple, mango, guava and kiwi tropicalia receives herbal respite above veiled sourdough breading.
ANCHOR STEAM “OUR SPECIAL” 2011 ALE
Likeable brown-bodied Christmas ale celebrates Anchor’s 37th anniversary. Wintry cinnamon-nutmeg spicing drapes cherry cola sweetness, fruit-caked fig sugaring and toasted almond tinge to dry mocha finish. Minor bristlecone pining embitters the durable backend.
CLOWN SHOES MUFFIN TOP
Vigorously full-bodied Belgian tripel/ American India Pale Ale hybrid (with exceedingly viscous copper clouding) benefits from frenzied floral fruiting, aggressive herbal spicing and zesty lemon juicing. Well-balanced attack less bitter and more sweet than most hop-headed IPA’s. Candi-sugared apple-peach-pear conflux, tropical melon-honeydew-cantaloupe-pineapple tang and chewy caramel malting overload stiff ethanol bite. Refreshing basil-mint accent provides unique divergence.
(SOMERVILLE) SLUMBREW HAPPY SOL
Interesting hefeweizen hybrid brewed with honey, coriander, orange peel and blood orange juice reaches tangy midst over mild vanilla wheat base for crisp moderation. Lemony carbolic prickle brings Seltzer-like flow to summery citric splendor and cotton-candied banana-plantain auxiliary contrasts herbal white peppering.
CUCAPA OBSCURA
In the can, peculiar Mexican brown ale retains weirdly sour lactic impulse above soy-sauced chocolate rye malting. Tart raisin-prune-fig-date conflux, vinous white cherry pucker and lemon-limed green grape curio bring saison-like appeal to sour ale-styled porter. Bottled version’s sourer mocha persuasion discernible.
LONG TRAIL IMPERIAL PORTER (VINTAGE 2011)
Sturdy milk chocolate entry picks up maple-sapped molasses sugaring, contrasting hazelnut-pecan-cola nuttiness and peat-smoked black peppering to soured dark cherry finish of aggressive sienna-hued full body. At its foundation, mild double espresso milking picks up cedar-burnt pine singe and IPA-like grapefruit bittering, deepening mocha tenacity of dark roasted caramel malting.
NARRAGANSETT PORTER
Old-styled tan-headed brown body compares favorably to San Miguel Dark Lager. Smoked chocolate malting and brown-sugared burnt caramel sweetness contrast sour dried fruiting. Wood-singed tinge saddles ancillary cola-walnut-hazelnut conflux, soy-sauced cappuccino undertone and roasted tobacco crisping. Sweet bourbon whiskey afterburner kicks in by molasses cookie-daubed Mild Dud finish.