ATWOOD’S TAVERN

ATWOOD’S TAVERN, CAMBRIDGE, MA.

Just past the heart of Cambridge five miles west of Boston, ATWOOD’S TAVERN has the cozily rustic feel of an Olde English pub with its wood furnishings, low ceilings, bottle cellar, rear dining space and superb beer selection. A heavily rotated batch of draughts delights both neighborhood brew hounds and curious outsiders. My wife and I sat dead center at the left bar during a two-hour mid-December 2011 stopover.

Copious salads, burgers and sandwiches dot the menu. I totally enjoyed the crispy crabcakes over spinach. There were a dozen tapped craft beers listed on the board in front of me and I chose three different stylistically ambitious brews from three brand spankin’ new local Massachusetts brewers.

First up, Jack’s Abby Brewing Kiwi Rising, an interestingly deviant Imperial India Pale Lager, represented the nearby town of Framingham. As Velvet Underground’s heroin-indulging “Waiting For My Man” played in the background, I quaffed the subtly tropical elixir. On tap, its faded kiwi, mango and passion fruit dalliance caressed piney grapefruit-peeled bittering and white-peppered spices, letting less intricately detailed pineapple, peach and red grape illusions to filter through the backend.

Next, the Beatles joyous “Everybody’s Got Something To Hide Except For Me And My Monkey” crammed the speakers as I dug into Backlash Convergence, a busy Belgian-styled farmhouse saison from the northwest Boston suburb of Brighton. Its barnyard yeast funk saddled prickly white-peppered rye malting, lemony candi-sugared banana-clove insistence and vanilla wafer sweetness.

A fabulous live bluegrass quintet played pristine acoustic numbers by the time I dipped into Somerville Brewing’s excellent Slumbrew Porter Square Porter. Based in Somerville two miles outside Boston and opened for business a mere month, this small operation now has three flagship beers in their young catalogue. A fine after dinner relaxant, Square Porter’s hop-roasted oats toasting allowed prominent coffee-stained black chocolate richness to deepen the wood-burnt walnut char and honey-glazed hazelnut sweetness.

Expanded reviews of these three brews are in Beer Index.

www.atwoodstavern.com

JACK’S ABBY KIWI RISING

On tap at Atwood’s Tavern, interestingly deviant Imperial India Pale Lager (aged longer than its well-known India Pale Ale variety) brought faded kiwi, mango and passion fruit tropicalia to a more pronounced piney grapefruit-peeled bittering. Incessant white-peppered spicing seasoned the less intricately detailed pineapple, red grape and peach regalia filtering through the backend of this uncommon dry-hopped strong lager. On tap at Growler & Gill, sweet ‘n sour kiwi influenced by musky lemon-rotted souring.

(SOMERVILLE) SLUMBREW PORTER SQUARE PORTER

On tap, gritty mocha nutty obsidian-hued full body relies on intense hop-roasted oats toasting to engage prominent coffee-stained black chocolate richness, deepening the wood-burnt walnut char and subsidiary vanilla bean jab. Honey-glazed hazelnut sweetness, chocolate-caked cocoa powdering and pine-sapped maple gradually contrast the coarsely bitter end. In the bottle (despite an aggressive pour), richly creamed full body (brewed with cocoa-powdered cacao nibs) picks up gooey anise influence on its way to the nutty black chocolate finish. Dark-roasted mocha malts and deeply charred hops inform black coffee, raw molasses, vanilla and fudge undertones.

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AVERY RUMPKIN

On tap at Barcade, creamy rum-barrel aged strong ale warms up like the finest cognac or brandy. Rum-spiced pumpkin pie entry stays firm against dark cherry, bruised orange and candied apple opulence. Wintry ginger-cinnamon-allspice-nutmeg conflux sidles molasses-sapped caramelized rye breading. Excellent digestif.

Rumpkin - Avery Brewing Co. - Untappd

 

KELSO CABERNET QUAD BOCK

On tap at Barcade, interestingly sumptuous Cabernet Sauvignon-regaled ‘quadrupel’ bock brings musty muscatel wining to dried-fruited raisin-plum-fig conflux and sharply hopped spices. Tartly tannic cranberry, raspberry, cherry and Muscat grape musk recedes beneath oaken pinot noir timbre. Lofty winter warmer affords serious fireside relaxation.

(RINKUSKAI) BEFORE AFTER LAGER

Slushy flavor profile confounds bleary 12% alcohol triple bock camouflaged as a premium pale lager on a nasty strong Czech beer bender. Cloy Scotch entry picks up orange-spiced Courvoisier cognac propensity and blatant cotton-candied butterscotch-marzipan-vanilla sweetness undercut by slick honeyed ginger murk. Sugary corn ripple and superfluous rice wine tipple crammed into messy mix.