Uninvolving Extra Special Bitter-derived red ale plies murky orange-grape-cherry tartness to dirty earthen nuttiness, musty wet-grained cardboard staleness and phenol hop astringency. Favorable tobacco-roasted crisping fills the midst but wavered hazelnut sugaring and rye-breaded fennel neutrality need a push.
All posts by John Fortunato
MAUMEE BAY SUMMER STINGER AMERICAN PALE WHEAT
RUSHING DUCK BEANHEAD COFFEE PORTER – NITRO
On tap at Ambulance, sedate nitro version offers soft Guatemalan coffee bean roast that sours above bittersweet cocoa and resinous dark chocolate illusions (and recessive black pepper snip). Oily coffee finish lingers lightly.
LONG IRELAND HOOLIGAN STOUT
On tap at Craft House, soft-tongued dry Irish stout never fully develops, staying too tame and lacking depth. Easygoing coffee-oiled bittering fades quickly above hop-toasted char, dark-roasted chocolate malting and black-breaded caramel tease.
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LONG IRELAND RASPBERRY WHEAT
On tap at Craft House, pronounced raspberry tartness spreads above sweet honeyed wheat spine. Carbolic seltzer fizz and mild citric hop pep become phenol, decreasing its up-front sweet ‘n sour raspberry pleasantry just a tad.
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BROOKLYN I WANNA RYE-IT
ITHACA CAYUGA CRUISER BERLINER WEISSE
ANDERSON VALLEY BOONT BARL BOURBON BARREL AMBER ALE
ANDERSON VALLEY ROSY BARL SOUR ALE
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, polite Chardonnay-soured Bahl Hornin’ Mowkeef Saison uses wild yeast to accentuate dry white-wined vinegaring, lemony limestone acridity and oaken vanilla phenols. At mouth-puckering finish, lilting rosé and pinot gris illusions as well as tertiary raspberry-cranberry tartness pickup hay-seeded barnyard rusticity.
ANDERSON VALLEY HEELCH O’ HOPS DOUBLE INDIA PALE ALE
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, well-rounded medium-full body spreads lustrous spiced fruiting across pine-needled hop bittering and biscuit-y malts. Lemony orange, grapefruit, pineapple and mango tropicalia brightens summery mood as latent apple, pear and peach undertones increase juicy fruited profile. Light peppercorn insistence bumps up against crisp celery watering at backend.
ANDERSON VALLEY SPRING HORNIN’ INDIA PALE ALE
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, aggressive springtime IPA brings spicier fruit juicing and bitterer white-peppered herbage to ESB-like dewy earth tones. Evenly spread grapefruit, orange, tangerine and apricot tang picks up subtlest Bartlett pear lick and mildest floral accent above sugary cereal-grained base. Zesty citric peel briskness muted a tad at plodding finish.
