Wily amber-hazed red ale appears brassier and heavier malted than iconoclastic Rogue Dead Guy. Perfectly robust blend of earthen mineral graining, woody Amarillo hop spicing and toasted caramel malting sidles frisky orange-peeled grapefruit bittering. Subsidiary cherry, apple, and berry illusions perk up dark floral undertones as toffee-butterscotch sweetness gathers strength. At finish, harsh alcohol burn deepens ripe fruited plain of limited edition liquid.
All posts by John Fortunato
SARANAC SUMMER ALE
Brisk medium-bodied summer refresher (circa 2011) maintains syrupy peach-lacquered apricot tang above fizzy hop pep to honeyed wheat spine. Sweet lemonade whim caresses sunny Belgian witbier-like citron twist at midst. Herbal-spiced coriander, ginger, lemongrass, menthol, spearmint, and eucalyptus illusions make small cameos. A strapping seasonal bettering most delicate summertime lightweights.
SARANAC ADIRONDACK LAGER
Slick middle-of-the-road German-styled pale lager seemingly retains English Special Bitter or ‘pub’ ale attributes such as caramelized rye-breaded malting, cellar-like fungi waft and mild woody hop bittering. Withered floral-spiced orange-apricot-grapefruit snip and insufficient pastry-caked spicing (nutmeg-coriander) never approach surface of short-headed amber-hued moderation.
SARANAC BROWN ALE
Insubstantial brown-sugared caramel-butterscotch-chocolate malting too distantly slick for prickled hop-roasted oats toasting. Bland maple nuttiness receives flimsy sour-honeyed glaze.
TAPPETO VOLANTE
Poor musty Italian blonde lager with pearly-headed opaque-cleared hue lacks body, texture, and complexity, though crisp alpine-watered sparkle revives salty club soda spritz. Thin, watery, washed-out and soapy, its doughy malt spine cannot carryover sour rye breading, swilled corn-floured murk, and phenol citric musk.
BLUE MOON SPRING BLONDE WHEAT
Unassuming springtime seasonal (2011) retains crisply mild orange-lemon peeled tartness over delicate hop spicing. Citric hard candied sugaring reduced by fizzy carbolic nature to frail honeyed wheat spine. Soapy citron finish is neither unpleasant nor offensive.
SAMUEL ADAMS SUMMER ALE 2011
MOOSEHEAD LIGHT LIME
Cloying saccharine-like lime soda likeness may put off all but fruited malt beverage lunkheads. Dry lime spritzer (with acrid hop-fizzed aridity and straw-yellowed hue) picks up definite agave influence, but goes flat quick. Sugary lemonade snip, tart white-yellow grape parching, and zesty menthol herbage round out trendy light-bodied desiccation.
RED HOOK MUD SLINGER SPRING ALE
EAST COAST BEACH HAUS PILSNER
On tap at Andy’s Corner Bar, vigorous pre-prohibition-styled pale body reaches creamy honeyed malt summit. Sharply salted grassy-hopped spicing underscores corn-sugared cereal graining contrasting tart lemon-peeled yellow-fruited bittering. A well-balanced full-bodied changeup that’s more robust and flavorful than typical light pilsner fare.
MIKKELLER BEER GEEK BRUNCH WEASEL
Curiously, defecated weasel excrement picks up enzymes in the digestive system (from eaten coffee berries) to create very interesting and worthwhile crap! Terrific black velvet Imperial Oatmeal Stout (with ruby highlights) retains strong black coffee theme and creamy espresso supplement for extremely peculiar brunch digestif. Strong coffee frontage well integrated to chocolate-caked crème brulee sweetness, viscous Blackstrap molasses malting and rich burgundy-port wining for rigidly robust rapscallion. Heavily roasted oats embed massive hop char from top to bottom, heightening heavenly coffee insistence as well as subsidiary berry contingent and black cherry niche.
PORTERHOUSE WRASSLERS FULL STOUT
Middling dry Irish stout lets slick plastic impression and everlastingly harsh charcoal tarred bittering disrupt decent blackened mocha theme. Resounding coffee-burnt dark chocolate frontage accrues resinous hop char and dirty earthen spell. Ashen plum, prune and raisin subsidy lost amidst acrid phenol doldrums. On second passing, peat-soiled marble rye, pungent black tea, bourbon and molasses undertones nip at the bitter black chocolate finish.