Category Archives: United States Brewpubs

TRIUMPH BREWING – PRINCETON

United States Brewpubs,

NEW JERSEY – SOUTH

Tucked into Princeton’s industrious town center, TRIUMPH BREWING COMPANY, sojourned May ’09, has been brewing since ’96. Entering through a narrow hallway, this capacious Cathedral-like red- bricked bar with left side and loft dining exhibits traditionalist charm. Well-prepared entrees, sandwiches, and appetizers go well alongside brewer Tom Stevenson’s sterling brew selection.

Glass-encased brewtanks behind the bar served two bitter Cascade-hopped ales. Fruitier, less woody Centennial IPA (plying bold resin-hopped lemon-peeled grapefruit-currant bittering to earthen mineral grains) outdid lemony grapefruit-peeled, wood-lacquered, cologne-wafted, herbal-doused, pine-tarred Amber Ale. Inoffensive barley-toasted, grassy-hopped Vienna Lager and headier wildflower-honeyed, corn-dried Honey Wheat suited blue-collar thirsts.

Things picked up substantially with soft hand-pulled, caramelized rye-malted, earthen peat-tinged Extra Special Bitterand raspberry-tart, tangerine-soured, brimstone-treacled, limestone-leathered, lavender-oiled, white-peppered Framboise Strong Ale. Frothy soft-toned Oatmeal Stout brought coffee ice cream, chocolate éclair, and chocolate chip cookie sugaring to ancillary black licorice, black cherry, praline, cola nut, and macadamia sedation.

Making a tremendous showing with his latest stylish elixirs during June ’11 fling, Stevenson’s latest spot-on offerings proved to be fascinatingly diversified.

Seated at the upper bar with my wife, we shared a tasty flatbread Tuscan pizza while I consumed three previously untried libations. Well-defined Euro-derived brews leading the way this sweltering Saturday at noon were a German smoked beer, a noir English-styled dark ale, and a Scottish heather-tipped beauty.

Honey-glazed ham, bacon, salami, and pastrami drift into cedar-smoked beechwood recession for desiccated Band-aid-wafted Rauchbier, a fine smoked beer knockoff gaining iodized acridity by pallid meat-cured finish.

Lactose-bound Grover’s Mill Coffee & Cream Stout retained impressive egg-creamed froth and creamy mocha nuttiness of Guinness, daubing its clean milked-coffee midst with peat-smoked whiskey and white-brown chocolate sentiments.

Better still, Pictish Ale exemplified a non-hopped heather ale in all its sweetly floral glory. Hibiscus, rosebud, lavender, and lilac create fresh bouquet for honeyed crystal malting, lemon-limed tartness, gin-like juniper passing and ester-y green grape bite.

My wife’s light-bodied, wheat-honeyed, citric-spoiled, dry-finishing Honey Blonde, couldn’t contend but still sufficed.

Hit Princeton area again October ’18, quaffing five previously untried Triumph brews during lunchtime while Supreme Court Judge Cavanaugh got rubbed up by senate probe.

Hoppy Northwest-styled Amber Ale retained tartly soured lemony grapefruit spicing, amber-grained caramel toasting and wispy earthen wood tones.

Dankly sourdough dried Oktoberfest left fennel-licked orange tartness upon leafy hops, moist earthen dewiness and recessive nut bread snips.

Effervescent Belgian candi-sugared Saison let black-peppered cardamom spicing tingle ancillary coriander, grains of paradise, lemony banana and perfumed cologne illusions.

Lemony yellow grapefruit tanginess enveloped New England IPA, leaving grassy hop astringency and crisp pine tones in its wake.

Soft nitro-like cask ale, Nutt’s Brown Ale, underpinned its dark-roast chocolate malting with day-old coffee souring and subtle nuttiness.

www.triumphbrewing.com

THE SHIP INN

United States Brewpubs,

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NEW JERSEY – NORTH

Overlooking a side-winding creek blocks from the Delaware River in the Arcadian small-town countryside of Milford, maritime-inspired English pub, THE SHIP INN, began operations in 1995 and has bragging rights as Jersey’s first brewpub.

First visited December ’07, this tan-hued maroon-etched side-decked green-walled British-styled public house is lodged inside a historic Victorian building that was used as a busy speakeasy during prohibition. Large wooden doors open to an elongated left-hand back tile-ceilinged oak bar with wood furnishings, hanging pewters, mugs and tap handles strewn about.

Backroom supper space sidled antique Peter Austin brew kettle setup while nautical paraphernalia lined the entire interior. Three formal dining rooms were available.

Typical British dishes such as fish and chips, venison stew and shepherd’s pie accompanied excellent United Kingdom bottled-canned beer selections from Samuel Smith, Theakston’s, Mc Ewan’s, Melbourne Brothers, etc. Alongside plentiful Chicken Hot Pie (featuring shrimp, leeks, and mushrooms), consumed brewer Timothy Hall’s commendable Extra Special Bitter, a frothy-headed wood-stained Cascade-hopped dry body appending grapefruit rind bittering to rye-pumpernickel toasting and creamy residual sugars.

Nearly as great were Hall’s black chocolate-embittered coffee-roasted hop-charred crystal-malted Randy’s Panhead Porter and buttery lemon-seeded grapefruit-soured perfume-hopped black-peppered rye-honeyed walnut-seared tealeaf-tinged cask conditioned Best Bitter. Softer palates will drift towards fluffy floral-hopped grapefruit-fizzed currant-sharpened horsehide-dried Session Ale.

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During May ’09 revisit, caught up with Hall once again. Tried busy tea-like Toasted Ale, with its herbal white-peppered pumpernickel surge and coffee-burnt, chocolate-roasted, hop-toasted, cherry-daubed saunter.

Ate lemon-peppered whitefish with green version of cocoa-beaned nut-shelled prune-date-smeared Randy’s Panhead Porter. Afterward, quaffed lemony baked-breaded wheat-husked herbal-soaped Golden Wheat Ale.

On an overcast Sunday in May 2011, long-time brewmaster Timothy Hall joined me as I quaffed two previously untried beers, one new year-round offering, and one rightful award-winning staple, Panhead Porter. Leaning on this British side, Hall’s distinctive handcrafted whole-grain ales really rule the rural roost.

Right in line with this rainy spring season, Spring Mild retained a delicate English-styled bitterness, placing crystal malts in a dramatic peat-smoked tobacco-dried grain setting, picking up a musty fungi earthiness along the way.

Even better, the tongue-tied Pheasant Plucker was definitely the “pleasant fucker” I laughingly requested. A busy, yet approachable, brown ale, its Scotch-splotched peat smoked malting picked up dry mocha-cocoa affluence, earthen woodsy dewiness, sinewy molasses creaming, peanut-shelled cola-walnut shard and dark-spiced kelpee seaweed oiling.

Doing me a huge favor, Hall headed downstairs to the ground level brew tank area and poured me a slightly green version of a viscous pale ale made with local honey over an Extra Special Bitter base. This supreme concoction, known as Killer Bee, brings soft-focus citric intrigue to glutinous raw honey sapping and recessive butterscotch malting.

Presently set for regular rotation alongside pumpernickel-toasted Extra Special Bitter, (citric-dried Best Bitter and baked-breaded Golden Wheat Light), the bees-waxed bittersweet treat will have heads floating like butterflies.

Before heading out after enjoying truly delicious drunken mussels and fish ‘n chips with beer samples, Hall informed me The Ship Inn will brew an India Pale Ale for the early summer and a bitterer offshoot, Northwest IPA, to follow.

www.shipinn.com

EGAN & SONS

United States Brewpubs,

NEW JERSEY – NORTH

A few blocks from downtown Montclair and 20 minutes west of Manhattan, EGAN & SONS is tucked into a quiet residential neighborhood on Walnut Street. Initially visited October ’07, upscale brown-bricked restaurant-saloon had small front and side patios, quaint frontal barstool area, elongated left-hand bar across panel-sided tables, cozy eight-chaired private booth, and rear dining space (with striking tiled ceiling).

Many exquisite wood furnishings were salvaged from a Dublin Castle pub, adding an overall Classical feel. English-styled grog consisted of bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, and lamb while honey maple wings, calamari, mussels, and blue cheese salad topped the appetizer menu. A white-marbled dumbwaiter brought food orders from basement kitchen to central bar area. Fine whiskey, bourbon, wine, and bottled beers supplemented conservatively well-crafted beers brewed on small loft level.

Straw wheat-dried corn-husked cereal-grained phenol-hopped Todd’s Lager was rather robust. Subtly perfumed floral hop bittering overlaid calm clementine-peach-apricot fruitiness of Old Fellow Pale Ale.

Salt-watered quince-tangerine-cherry tang festooned cream-centered Red Ale and acidulous hop-fizzed vegetal-citric alcohol-burned Egan Fest lacked autumnal pumpkin spicing.

In November ’08, revisited with parents and wife prior to Al Green concert at nearly Wellmont Theatre to quaff dark chocolate-y hop-charred coffee-burnt maple-sapped vanilla-sweet walnut-buttered Chocolate Porter.

Upon May 2011 inspection, retried two standard brews alongside a fine India Pale Ale and Hooegaarden-like summertime witbier. While dry maize-grained lemon-peeled leather-backed light body, Todd’s Tipple Lager, continues to soothe session beer advocates, the more appealing apple-spiced, orange-dried, wood-lacquered, juniper-embittered Red Ale still pleases bolder thirsts.

As for the two previously untried offerings, both were convincing. Piney grapefruit-peeled, perfume-hopped, peach-toned Odd Fellow’s IPA competes favorably against stronger stylistic competition. And dry lemon-wedged citric-embittered floral-hopped hibiscus-backed Summer Wheat stayed effervescently soft-toned.

www.eganandsons.com

LONG VALLEY PUB

United States Brewpubs,

LONG VALLEY, NEW JERSEY

Residing at a refurbished 200-year-old gristmill in the bucolic westerly Schooley mountaintops of a secluded village from which it takes its name, LONG VALLEY PUB served fine appetizers, burgers, sandwiches, and entrees to go with well-crafted brews on February ’07 jaunt. Entering through a stone trestle to a good-sized patio area leading patrons into an antique wood interior with 1771-built fireplace, central bar, rear brew tanks, and upstairs loft dining, this capacious haven matched woodsy ranch-styled motif to earthy mineral-grained brews.

Dry green-hopped, corn-sopped, honey-malted Grist Mill Golden and astringent wheat-maize-centered, perfume-spiced, orange-dried Hookerman’s Light befit the rural splendor and suited softer thirsts.

Spice hop-embittered, caramel-molasses-packed, rye malt-slacked, citrus rind-backed German Valley Amber remains a local fave and bitterly herbal hop-spiced, grapefruit rind-soured, raw-grained LV’s Best Bitter a drier alternative.

Bolder thirsts will appreciate bitterly pine-combed, honey nut-buttered Nut Brown Ale, dry-roasted, walnut-fronted, coffee-grounded, black chocolate-glazed Lazy Jake Porter and milky lactose-frothed, cocoa bean-dried, hazelnut-sweetened Joe’s Oatmeal Stout.

On February ’09 revisit, tasted woody green-hopped, apple-peach-grapefruit-spiced, IPA-like American Pale Ale and oily cocoa-beaned, coffee-doused, soy-mildewed Devon’s Double Chocolate Stout.

Revisited July ’10 following one-week Poconos excursion, tried dry-hopped, pumpernickel-breaded, rye-toasted, earthen-bottomed, fungi-vegetal Bartleyville Rye. Along with wife, consumed pint of sharply embittered, wood-toned, hop-spiced, citric-peeled, veggie-backed I.P.A.

During May 2011 stopover, discovered dry-grained Signature Pale AlE, an unfiltered wheat-husked, mill-grained, lemon-backed moderation with leathery grass, hay, alfalfa, and barnyard earthiness. Also retried sampler with above-mentioned beers while sipping excellent lobster bisque.

www.restaurantvillageatlongvalley.com

KROGH’S RESTAURANT

United States Brewpubs,

Welcome to Krogh's Restaurant & Brew Pub! | Brew pub, Restaurant ...

NEW JERSEY – NORTH

Across from picturesque Mohawk Lake in rural western Jersey, Sparta-based KROGH’S RESTAURANT (now a National Historic Landmark), is tucked into a Swiss chalet-styled building with low ceilings, wood-lacquered walls, and rear brew tanks. Serving homemade cuisine since 1937, this cozy tavern began brewing operations in 1999. Originally visited December ’06, Krogh’s left dining area and right side bar featured olden wood furnishings perfectly indicative of its idyllic western Jersey surroundings.

Seafood, burgers, chicken, ribs, and Cajun food went well with brewer Dave Cooper’s lighter fare such as maize-dried, hop-embittered Krogh’s Gold and straw-grassed, wheat-parched, light-hopped Three Sisters Golden Wheat (which had a yummy candy-coated cream ale sensation when raspberry syrup was added).

Prune-soured, fig-dried, champagne-fizzed Alpine Glow Red Ale picked up oaken cherry aridity, apple-cherry souring, and cocoa nuttiness.

Heartier thirsts will lean towards bitter piney-hopped, lemon-dried, orange-peeled, apple-apricot-laced Brogdon Meadow Pale Ale, walnut-hazelnut-skewed, molasses-smoked, hop-charred Log Cabin Brown Ale, nutty coffee-espresso-mocha-bound Old Krogh Oatmeal Stout and winter warming cherry-honeyed, orange-peeled, anise-nutmeg-cinnamon-spiced Celebration Ale.

On one-hour October ’08 stopover, tried Band-Aid-wafted, bitterly-hopped, lemon-bruised, maize-dried, bark-smitten pungency Linfor’s Lager and cider-soured, lemon-tart, cranberry-puckered, white bread-leavened Windy Brow Cider Ale.

While in Sparta, June ’10, for my daughter Nicki’s softball tournament, returned to Krogh’s with mother and father for lunch (turkey club; pastrami; Caesar salad) and tried two newfound glories. Log Cabin Nut Brown retained chocolate-soured astringency as well as peanut-shelled walnut, hazelnut, and cola nuttiness to peppery hop-charred, wood-seared, burnt toast bittering. Bright citric-fronted, juniper-finishing B.K.’s IPA brought glazed peach-apple-pineapple tang to wood-dried, grapefruit-peeled, orange rind bittering.

Settled in on a hot Mayday in 2011 to try Cooper’s latest bold ale. Defiantly atypical, Gruney’s Belgian Dubbel prodded hop-roasted burgundy, port, and barleywine wining out of dried fig, purple grape, and earthen fungi illusions.

During July ’20 trip, sat outside at front deck under Makers Mark umbrellas to sample five previously untried suds. Leaning on the dry side stylistically, each brew had a certain earthen rusticity.

Sessionable soft toner, Bud’s Spuds Pre Prohibition Lager allowed corn-flaked russet potato grits to infiltrate cardboard-grained cilantro herbage, sour lemon rot and perfume musk.

Dry spiced dewy minerality picked up reluctant orange-dried red cherry licks to contrast barnyard leathering for Bud’s Ooh La La Saison.

Herbal-tattered Blum’s Belgian Wit led its lemony orange-coriander tartness into white-peppered black tea, fern and chamomile pleasantries.

Muskily dry Nucky Johnson Prohibition Red Ale buried its expected red-orange-yellow fruiting behind wet-grained oily hop resin.

Floral-perfumed citrus spunk caressed moderate-to-medium body Wicked Happy NEIPA, leaving mildly persistent lemon-seeded yellow grapefruit tartness upon dry pine resin.

www.kroghs.com

HARVEST MOON BREWERY & CAFE

United States Brewpubs,

NEW JERSEY – SOUTH

I originally wrote about New Brunswick-based HARVEST MOON BREWERY & CAFÉ in Aquarian Weekly during 1999, then revisited Rutgers campus tavern, March ’06. Since first sojourn to industrious New Brunswick metropolis, much had changed. New brewer Matt Mc Cord brought new English ale recipes, the American cuisine got better, and the exterior became cream colored.

An antique wood bar at the entrance curls to the right of this upscale, brick-walled, high-ceilinged pub. Stainless steel brew kettles bedeck the left side and basement fermentation tanks are visible at street level. Upstairs dining is available.

Ate meritorious Duck Confit Salad while quaffing peppery Saaz-hopped, wet-grassed, wheat-chaffed Moonlight Ale and floral Fuggle-hopped, mineral-grained, grapefruit-soured, apple-spiced Elmes’ Mild Manor. Sharply wood-grained, orange-moistened, grain-toasted Full Moon Pale Ale resembled an IPA with its oaken pine-needled bark bite and ample grapefruit bittering. Astringent dark-fruited, coffee-roasted, chestnut-toasted British Nut Brown was just OK.

These standards were bettered by sedate black chocolate-centered, cocoa-beaned, dry-wooded Oatmeal Stout, sharply red-fruited, rosebud-wildflower-tinged, bitterly-hopped Shoot The Moon IPA and prickly yellow-fruited, grain-toasted, Vienna malted, tea-like, Irish-styled Jimmy D’s Firehouse Red.

Magnificent top shelf items were bourbon-themed, brandy-tweaked, candi-sugared Doppel Bock (with its overripe raisin persistence) and burgundy-lingered, cinnamon-nutmeg-ginger-affected, fig-date-dried Spiced Winter Warmer.

While roaming Rutgers University August ’08, sampled mild bourbon-burgundy-affected, caramel-buttered, green-hop embittered, dried fruit-mingled, citric-tingled Moonshine Barleywine as well as soapy banana bubblegum-centered, lemony orange-backed, clove-spiced Harvest Hefeweizen.

Hopheads will go nuts for Hops Double IPA, where resinous hop oils pervade brassy pine-needled grapefruit-juniper bittering and floral-teased orange-apricot easement.

Now manning the kettles, new brewer Kyle Mc Donald came aboard in 2010. Upon June ’11 revisit, sampled two Belgian-styled brews, a hyped-up IPA, and newfangled ‘Moonshine.’

Candi-sugared banana-clove-coriander theme propelled white-peppered Belgian Wit that was bettered by orange-bruised, apple-spiced, melon-sweet, banana-pureed Belgian Saison. Fruitier than less embittered Full Moon, Pop’s Sturgis Double IPA placed pale-crystal malting beneath oaken pine-needled bark bite and grapefruit-peeled apricot-pear fruiting.

Loved newest version of Moonshine Barleywine, a lusty potion saturating cherry-bruised melon, cantaloupe, tangerine, peach, and mango tropicalia with Irish whiskey, buttered rum, bourbon, and burgundy illusions.

Before leaving at 3 PM with Yankees beating the Indians on one of the bar’s four TV’s, settled in with peanut-shelled, mocha-bottomed, walnut-macadamia-hazelnut-bound Mocha Porter.

www.harvestmoonbrewery.com

GASLIGHT BREWERY

United States Brewpubs,

Gaslight Brewery - About | Facebook

NEW JERSEY – NORTH

“A family friendly roundabout for all walks of life” is how Tony Soboti describes his family-owned and operated South Orange haven, GASLIGHT BREWERY & RESTAURANT. Located right in the center of town just a few doors down from the railroad station, this amiable three-roomed pub also maintains its status as a local homebrew supplier since 1998. A cozy red brick-walled oasis not far from Seton Hall University, my wife and I first visited Gaslight on Memorial weekend, May ’06.

Amongst the gas lantern-lined town square, Gaslight’s green awning welcomes patrons to a snug horseshoe-shaped oak bar with TV’s at all sides. A tucked-in right side area and private back seating provide family-styled dining. On top of offering terrific stylistically diversified home brews, there is also a great revolving bottled selection (Corsendonk, Westmalle, Sam Smith, Chimay, Schneider, Stone) plus expansive menu (chicken, pasta, sandwiches, pizza). A choice bottled beer collection, fluorescent beer signs, banners, license plates, dartboards, bar trays, and one shuffleboard table were strewn about.

Gaslight’s auspices go back to when Dan Soboti and his son, Danny, began home brewing together. By ’93, they opened a home brew supply store in Maplewood on Valley Street (now located upstairs at Gaslight). Danny completed his undergrad studies and went out to University of California-Davis to attend the Master Brewers Program. Gaslight officially opened June 1998, after four months of demolition, construction, installation and inspections. Joined by Danny’s mom, Cindy (executive chef), and brother, Tony (kitchen boss), their first three beers were Bison Brown, Bulldog Blonde and a Dark Mild.

Country Inn magazine originally rented the upstairs, but Gaslight soon took it over and used the space to host private parties. Storage and the home brewing equipment also fill up the loft space.

The Draft Board 15, a beer appreciation club with newsletter, was set up by Gaslight’s minions to attract fellow home brewers and beer geeks. They usually meet the second Sunday of every month and try to get speaker reps from different breweries. Mini home brew competitions infrequently take place.

Upon first visitation in May ’06, my wife quaffed Belgian’s excellent raspberry soda-like Lindeman’s Framboise Lambic, appreciatively available on tap. Meanwhile, the copper brew kettles at the entrance and right side tanks served a well-rounded selection of on-the-money libations.

Phenol hop-fizzed, grassy-grained, tobacco-dried Bulldog Blonde suited less discriminating novice tastes, but beer aficionados will want to move on to chewy malt-sugared, grapefruit-peeled, orange-dried, floral-accented dry body Pinhead Pilsner and mildly orange-grapefruit-embittered, sweet cracked wheat-backed, almond-tinged ESB.

Soft-tongued, sour-citric, Scotch-tinged, wheat-backed Kolsch and subtly citric, gently-hopped, cereal-grained Pirate Pale Ale were good moderate bodied delectables.

Better and stronger were alcohol-burnt, honeyed-malted, orange-bruised, peach-soured, fig-pecan-snipped The Eliminator Helles Bock and creamy nitro-injected, black chocolate-roasted, coffee bean-dried Perfect Stout.

Abstruse CC Porter draped dry raspberry puree coarseness and sour grape esters atop ancillary orange rind, green apple, seared walnut, and cocoa-coffee bean illusions to Black Forest Cake finish. And I took home a growler of award winning corn-sugared, grain-toasted, light-hopped Slalom Cream Ale.

Upon April ’08 revisit, discovered mild sweet-corned, orange-fruited, biscuit-backed, soapy-finishing Governator Vienna Lager and two tart dark beers.

Big Dog Porter had peat-like coffee-burnt raisin-soured chocolate-browned persuasion.

Colossus Imperial Stout maintained sourly sun-dried fig-prune-date theme submerging dry cocoa-chocolate respite.

During May ’09 stopover, quaffed astringent coffee-burnt, chocolate-soured, walnut-bound, lemon-orange-spoiled Bison Brown, sedate pinot grigio-dried, cider-sharp, lemon-soured, cask conditioned Pit Bull Bitter and woody dry-hopped, apple-orange-fig-draped, currant-embittered, plastic-like softie Zum Alt Dorf.

Better were oaken bourbon-burgundy-sherry-fronted, fig-dried date-sugared 3 Ring IPA and the intensely hop-embittered, bark-dried, alcohol-burnt, grapefruit-peeled, apricot-apple-tangerine-fruited B.A. Massive.

During my September 2011 lunchtime sojourn, I finally got to try the highly praised Abbey Normal, a Belgian-styled dubbel dark ale boasting up-front Merlot, burgundy and bourbon wining over prune-soured fig sugaring, Belgian chocolate spicing given dark floral accents.

More approachable, lighter-bodied Belgian-styled ales included medium-bodied Belgo Pale Ale (a mandarin orange-centered, lemon-fizzed, fig-dried softie with funky brettanomyces yeast souring) and the milder My Garden Wit (a perfume-hopped, citric-fruited, coriander-spiced, floral-backed moderation gathering wispy curacao orange, Japanese pear and tangerine nuances).

Congenial Hopfest, with its easygoing grapefruit-peeled juniper bittering, spiced tropical fruiting, slight alcohol burn and briny salting, utilized woody Amarillo and Cascade hops.

www.gaslightbrewery.com

INTERVIEW WITH CO-OWNER-BREWER DANNY SOBOTI

My friend Fred and I dug into our Turkey Jalapeno and Reuben Pastrami sandwiches while I conversed with Danny at the bar.

One of Gaslight’s most popular seasonals is the burgundy-wined, Belgian-candied, chocolate-malted Abbey Normal.

DANNY SOBOTI: We do a big promotion for it when it comes out, showing Young Frankenstien on the TV all day. I did a traditional double fermentation with it. We do our mash, send it over to the kettle, and after we’re done with our boil it’s sent over to the fermenter. We use Belgian yeast and it ferments real warm at 85 degrees. There’s a spicy character. After two days of primary fermentation the temperature drops down and we add the Belgian candy to the fermenter and you get a real nice caramel or burnt sugaring.

Many of your ales are English-styled. Is that a personal preference?

We do a lot of English style ales, but we always try to have at least one lager on – but the fermentation takes longer and ties up the tanks while we’re doing it. We also try to have one Belgian on. Our core beers are British but the Hopfest is an American Pale Ale with American hops and malts and the Bulldog Blonde is an American Golden Ale.

Is the approachable Bulldog Blonde your best seller?

I’d say it was. When we started out, I was making that every third batch. Now it’s gone down, but the seasonals wind up taking over and selling the most. People look forward to them. Our Octoberfest will be coming out late September. Each time you make a relatively small batch, there’s always gonna be minor variations. People enjoy picking out the differences with each batch. Budweiser goes for mass appeal. Over the years, the big brewers have branched out – the way it used to be when Newark had ten or fifteen breweries pre-prohibition. They had a bock in the spring and a summer or winter beer.

One of my favorite Gaslight beers is the intensely hop-embittered, bark-dried, grapefruit-peeled, tangerine-tinged B.A. Massive.

We use Apollo hops in there. We get a lot of our hops from Steiner Hops, an English company. A lot of brewers use Hop Union. But Steiner’s a bigger hop producer with farms all over the world. They do a lot of breeding. Apollo and Bravo are two of their newer hops – utilizing high oil content. These hops have a classic American character – spiciness, citrus, and pine. I like them. And B.A. Massive is one of my favorites. The bitterness level isn’t ridiculous, but we add hops continuously throughout the boil. It has a lot of hop character but it’s not enough to cause palate fatigue.

Water is the main ingredient in beer. How are your pH levels?

Our water stays pretty consistent. We don’t have to adjust the pH too much. It’s slightly acidic. Our light beers I add a little lactic acid to the mash to keep the color down. In our dark stuff, stouts and porter, I usually add some calcium carbonate to take the edge off.

What do you believe separates Gaslight from the other dozen Jersey brewpubs?

I’d say how much stuff we make here. We make the beer here and as much of the food as possible. We make all of our own breads with a smoker. We make the pastrami, barbecued pork and chicken, pickles, all the desserts. Cindy, my mom, comes up with the specials. We also have a suggested pairing to go along with the specials menu. There’s usually three or four special entrees and some special desserts.

UNO CHICAGO GRILL & BREWERY

United States Brewpubs,

NEW JERSEY – NORTH

On the way home from upper Delaware brewpub tour February ‘06, originally visited Metuchen’s unique UNO CHICAGO GRILL & BREWERY (formerly Pizzeria Uno), the only stateside restaurant chain brewpub. Multiple TV’s at every conceivable corner surround right side dining, left side bar (with copper kettles near glass back), and central drinking area of freestanding pub on busy Route 1.

Quaffed prickly dry-hopped lemon-bruised grapefruit-soured wheat-chaffed maize-parched Bootlegger Blonde Ale, fruit-spiced caramel-roasted Station House Red Ale, bohemian malt-lagered citrus-hopped black-peppered pilsner-light 32 Inning Ale and coffee bean-fronted chocolate nut-bottomed Gust-N-Gale Porter.

Better choices showing greater depth were sharp floral-fruited hop-embittered Ike’s India Pale Ale and terrific rust-glowed yeast-sinewy Weiss N’ Bock, with its buttery rum theme, candied malt sweetness, bruised orange permeation and banana-pear fling.

June ’08, tried moderate-bodied Seltzer-like lemon-orange-candied pineapple-apricot-teased pepper-spiced Belgian Wit (served with orange wedge).

On lunchtime July ’10 sojourn to Jersey Shore, stopped by for lemon-wedged floral-tinged citrus-soured Hefeweizen (with its mandarin orange, banana, and clove intrigue).

Also discovered nebulous Band-Aid-scented Scotch-dried phenol-spiced copper ale-like Scotch Ale, an astringent barley-toasted peat-smoked pecan-backed misfire that’d vastly improve by next visit.

During November 2011 lunchtime stopover, my friend Fred and I dipped into a sampler tray before discovering one previously untried libation.

New brewer Chris Percello (who came aboard over the summer) tweaked a few recipes and upped the quality a bit. Our friendly bartending hostess, Alina, kept us entertained while serving Cuban black bean lentil soup, New York clam chowder, thin crust pizza (with roasted eggplant, fetta cheese, pesto, and tomatos) and deep dish pizza (pepperoni, sausage, green peppers, onions).

Best selling Ike’s India Pale Ale retained a fruitier pining and sturdier hop footprint. A deeper nuttiness, richer roasted hop thrust and dewier peat malting elevated the updated Station House Red Ale. And the dryly nutty Gust-N-Gale Porter easily sufficed.

Afterwards, we got to premier a green version of Uno’s top seasonal offering, the bettered chocolate-spiced version of Scotch Ale, with its peat-y earthen graining, dark caramel malting and caraway-seeded fennel illusions.

Possibly the best selection this sunny afternoon was the American-styled Dark Lager, a quirky medium-bodied German knockoff attaching sedate peanut-oiled mocha dryness to subtle peat-smoked chocolate roast.

To make Uno even more appealing to nearby Route 287 and Garden State Parkway passengers, the $2 happy hour draughts get served Monday thru Friday 4 to 7 and 10 to closing.

www.pizzeriauno.com

TUN TAVERN BREWERY

United States Brewpubs,

Tun Tavern, Atlantic City, NJ: A Restaurant Review

NEW JERSEY – SOUTH

To begin March ’05, went to gambling mecca, Atlantic City, visiting Firewaters at Tropicana Resort (tasting draft selections while admiring 101 bottled beer assortment) before landing at TUN TAVERN BREWERY. Located next to Convention Center in Sheraton Hotel since ’97, Tun’s known for the “best steaks in Jersey.” Opening to a U-shaped bar with left side brew tanks and secondary loft bar, this commodious blue-walled sienna wood-furnished public house had high ceilings, open kitchen, roomy dining area, and routine mash tun aroma.

Brewer Ted Briggs (replaced by Flying Fish Brewery’s Tim Kelly after accepting Lake Placid Brewery job) obligingly offered chewy Freedom Ale 2004 Barleywine, a dazzling 11% alcohol specialty brew aged in Jack Daniels barrels. Its dry-hopped chocolate liqueur frontage picked up bruised orange, plum, raisin, prune, and cherry jubilee nuances, settling to bourbon-warmed vanilla finish.

Alcohol-soaked banana-ripened cherry-stained Quafdruple, caramelized mocha-seeped coffee-bottomed Nut Brown and exquisite peachy-keen floral-hopped candy-sugared All American IPA were highlights.

Band-aid-nosed perfume-hopped corn-malted Tun’s Best English-Style Bitter, diacetyl apricot-slacked, wheat-strawed, maize-dried, herbal tea-tinged, club soda-like Tun Light Golden Ale, citric-prone cocoa-powdered dusty-floral hop-roasted Irish Red and mild oats-faded, black chocolate-waned Black Jack Oatmeal Stout soothe less discrete tastes. Light-finishing autumnal Pumpkin Ale brought pumpkin pie crusting to brown-sugared cinnamon-nutmeg-allspice grip.

During January ’07 Tun Tavern revisit, tried worthy red-fruited juniper-hopped raw-grained fig-date-dried Devil Dog Pale Ale (though full-bodied barley-flaked cappuccino-chocolate-serenaded Leatherneck Stout was unavailable).

In November ’07, brewer Tim Kelly sat along as I quaffed astringent pumpkin-spiced hop-spritzed butternut-squash-quince-dabbed cinnamon-ginger-nutmeg-pinched salt-watered Chuckin’ Pun’kin. Thereafter, he brought down interesting, if green, Gruit-styled Winter Warmer, an easy flowing curative with primary sassafras theme overlaying eucalyptus, caraway seed, dried fig and radish illusions.

Finally, sampled elusive Leatherneck Stout, a leather-dried cedar-singed Band-aid-nosed medium body placating burnt coffee frontage with ample toasted nuttiness.

Afterwards, quaffed 22-ounce bottle of Tun Tavern Grand Cru, a terrific medicinal-honeyed Belgian-styled ale with caramelized apple hook, Drambuie liqueur line, and bruised banana-orange sinker overriding brown-sugared clove-coriander spicing.

During April ’20, tried sessionably soft-toned Eldorado Splash, a brown tea-hued English-styled IPA scattering dry earthen pine, herbal musk, bracken fern and sawgrass illusions across apple-skinned grapefruit, brown pear and apricot sedation.

www.tuntavern.com

BASIL T’S

United States Brewpubs,

NEW JERSEY – SOUTH

February ’05, first visited ORIGINAL BASIL T’S (now Basil T’s) in Red Bank, an authentic Italian restaurant not affiliated with similarly named Toms River brewpub less than a half hour away (now known as Artisan’s). An exquisite alehouse with hundreds of personalized beer mugs hovering over the rectangular bar, its left windowed brew tanks have been active since 1997.

Doors open directly to snug green tile-floored bar area (with six high definition televisions) across right side dining where fresh mozzarella cheeses get displayed. Exquisite wood interior adds warmth and a plethora of fine Italian wines contrast the fine homemade brews.

Though long-time brewer Gretchen Schidhausler departed June ’11, ex-Pizzeria Uno brewmaster Mike Sella took over without disruption.

Fabulous pizza dishes are recommended alongside citric wheat-husked, dry-grained, light-bodied Ms. Lucys Weimaraner Wheat and dry tea-like, tobacco-sweet, Scottish seasonal Iceboat Ale.

Medium-bodied fare include piney spice-hopped, floral-citric Rosie’s Tail Waggin Pale Ale and caramelized red-fruited, coffee-soured, nut-roasted Basil’s Rocket Red.

Best bets may be darker styles: bitter coffee-burnt, espresso-beaned, mocha-chalked Big Vig’s Short Order Porter and black chocolate-roasted, espresso-coffee-deepened, hop-seared Maxwell’s Dry Stout.

Spent an hour revisiting (Original) Basil T’s on steamy August ’09 afternoon prior to body surfing at Brick Township’s Ocean Club. Drained pints of raw-grained, hop-oiled, maize-dried, sour-mashed, yellow-fruited, vegetal-finishing Summer XXX Ale and pine-sapped, hazelnut-roasted, hop-charred, coffee-stained, cigar-ashy, espresso-deepened American Brown Ale.

During June 2011 revisit, got familiar with two more exciting brews that went well alongside wonderful zuppa di piselli (rustic pea soup w/ cheese-grated vegetables). Though I’d missed stylishly intriguing Cocoa Fuoco by two days, spice-tingled citric spritzer, Extra Special Bitter and superior adjunct ale, Honey Basil Wheat, with its sweet-honeyed basil, thyme, and hibiscus illusions, kept afternoon patrons happy (alongside the ever-popular Maxwell’s Stout).

For late-July ’11 respite on the way to Mantoloking getaway, The Ocean Club, my wife and kids shared a rapini pizza (broccoli rabe, mozzerella cheese, grape tomatos and chili flakes) while I quaffed two previously untried libations.

A certain lacquered nuttiness, dark chocolate caress, and wood-burnt bittering saddled American Brown Ale, spreading Brazil nut, walnut, cashew, and peanut illusions above ashen earthiness. Astringently dry-hopped fruit ale, Peach Wheat, brought corn-husked honeyed wheat graining to wispy unripe white peach tartness.

It’s nearly dinnertime, March 2012, on a Monday, as I trudge into Basil T’s once more. For March, founder Victor Rollo’s celebrating his authentic Italian restaurant dining experience with a 26th anniversary Big Price Rollback. A brewpub for over a decade now, this classy shore-bound hotspot got packed by 4 PM. Jackson Browne’s classic “Runnin’ On Empty” played in the low ceiling bar area as many locals enjoy the special cheap fare alongside favorite brews such as Maxwell’s Dry Stout and Ms. Lucys Weimaraner Wheat.

I feast on outstanding Cozze mussels (with chickpeas) then complementary chicken wings while consuming Basil T’s latest fine offering, the stylistically easygoing Luppoli IPA. Its ripe fruited milieu and creamy caramel malting saturated spruce-tipped dry hops. A spicy tingle penetrated tangy pink grapefruit, peach, orange and nectar illusions. I drain a second pint before heading safely home again.

www.basilt.com

ARTISAN’S BREWERY & ITALIAN GRILL

United States Brewpubs,

NEW JERSEY – SOUTH

Located in a freestanding gold Mediterranean stucco building at Toms River-based Seacourt Pavilion, ARTISAN’S BREWERY & ITALIAN GRILL began as Basil T’s (originally visited September 2004 during  extensive Garden State journey initiated at another easterly seabound alehouse in central Jersey, Woodbridge’s J.J. Bitting).

By 2010, the Gregorakis family, owners of Basil T’s, changed their upscale brewery-grill to ARTISAN’S in order to avoid confusion with nearby Red Bank’s similarly named brewery.

On first stopover, my wife and I enjoyed the casual intimacy of this recommended midsize eatery (with private cigar lounge). At dimly lit piano bar, we sampled the nicely diversified and oft-times delicate brews emanating from the leftside brew tanks.

Along with family-styled Italian food (Marguerite pizza/ Giambotta), dry-spiced wheat husker Barnegat Light Ale; sourly lemon-bruised caramel roaster Toms River Red Ale; muted orange-peach-melon-fruited, mildly Cascade-hopped American Pale Ale;  praline-honeyed, hazelnut-buttered, macadamia-sugared Nut Brown Ale; light-spiced, wheat-sullen Sunset Ale; and dry orange-bruised, lemon-tart Hefeweizen easily passed muster. These beer recipes would soon take a major step up.

Upon July ’08 revisit, Climax Brewery brewmaster Dave Hoffmann was brought onboard to improve the quality and diversity of Basil T’s (now Artisan’s) new-fashioned beer selection. Along with Cobb Salad and Flatbread Mediterranean Pizza, quaffed lemony plantain-fronted, fig-date-receded, dry-bodied Basil T’s Light Ale, white-breaded, grassy-hopped, mineral-grained, lemon-perfumed Helles Lager, balmy sweet ‘n sour banana-centered, lemon-bruised, cereal-grained, chocolate-malted Dunkelweizen and red-yellow-fruited caramel-malted Maibock.

Better still were spritz-y lemon-hopped, banana-breaded, malt-lacquered Hefeweizen (served with an orange slice), mildly coffee-roasted, orange-dried, fennel-tapered, earthen-finishing, Irish-styled Red Ale and honey-roasted, banana-blustered, floral-spiced, hop-embittered English Extra Special Ale. After lunch, relished soft-hopped, wood-dried, apple-orange-pear-brightened West Coast Style IPA.

On my June ’11 stopover, I took a seat at the U-shaped, slate-topped central bar to try delicious feta-stuffed lamb meatballs and cream of mushroom soup with five soft, approachable beers and one robust Bavarian pils.

“I concentrate on making well-balanced beer,” brewer Dave Hoffmann claimed as he tendered a newly brewed German Pilsner that retains a bold hop-embittered aggression to counter its crisp rye graining and dainty lemon-rotted grapefruit wisp.

Hoffmann doesn’t try to hit you over the head with outrageous hop bittering or obnoxious alcohol persistence, keeping beer profiles accessible to mainstream customers as well as obliging aficionados. Though his springtime weizenbock and maibock were gone by time I arrived, tart banana bubble-gummy Hefeweizen (with its perfume-hopped green apple, white grape and dried orange nuances and subtle white peppering) nicely sufficed.

Best selling standard fare still includes grassy-hopped, yellow-fruited, alfalfa-dried, barnyard-leathered Artisan’s Lite Ale and subtle pine-needled, red-fruited, biscuit-buttered West Coast IPA.

Better still were peanut-shelled, walnut-bound, chocolate-chipped, molasses-backed Nut Brown Ale and ESB-like, caramel-toasted, coffee-roasted, wood-grained Artisan’s Red Ale.

After a long July ’11 week of body surfing in Long Beach Island, headed north to Toms River and once again perused Artisan’s for lunch. Seated directly behind the brew tanks with family, I noticed a beautiful canvass-like mural exhibiting the brewing process (spread across the interior wall above our heads). The goat cheese salad was delightful, as was my wife’s Mediterranean pizza.

Getting down to business, brewer Dave Hoffmann supplied a newfangled English-Style IPA that truly hit its stylistic mark. Its mild mineral-watered crispness centered the amiable spice-hopped yellow fruiting, grainy pumpernickel breading, mossy black tea herbage and veering nutty undertones.

Better still, Hoffmann’s 10th Anniversary Dunkelweizen reigned supreme. Boasting an unanticipated hop-roasted coffee entry, its ashen mocha malting saddles earthen red, purple and Muscat grape esters with lively banana-pureed black cherry, burgundy and Merlot illusions for a bold, yet congenial, template.

At mid-afternoon on a Saturday in March, 2012, my wife and I settled at Artisan’s after perusing Carton Brewery half an hour north. We get seated in the intimate left dining area, a cozily romantic space where I down brewer Dave Hoffmann’s two latest libations. (Cigar aficionados should be advised that a sectioned off area accommodates smokers.)

I’ve always found Hoffmann’s general fare to be refined and soft-toned. And the man who splits time fronting Climax Brewery would not disappoint this time.

The amiable Artisan Bock balanced mild chocolate-roasted coffee tones with sugared fig, dried cherry, musty grape and wafting cellar dew.

Arguably better, coffee-roasted dark chocolate leanings and earthen peat malts secured Baltic stout-like Chocolatey Porter, a waterier dark ale crowding hazelnut, peanut and macadamia undertones in a crisply clean manner.

I’m completely full after chowing down Artisan’s incredibly generous $14 Early Bird Special consisting of rich mushroom soup, Bleu cheese salad, stuffed flounder (with spinach and feta cheese) and strawberry-topped cheesecake. I don’t even sample my wife’s Mediterranean Flatbread Pizza (gathering hummus, olives, roasted peppers, caramelized onions and feta) until I reach home nearly an hour later.

After visiting Hoffman at Climax, drove half-hour down to Artisan’s to try two new offerings. Just slightly more aggressive than Climax IPA, easily approachable WaCoCiCaN! IPA combined high alpha Warrior hops, wood-toned Columbus hops, citric Centennial hops, floral-fruited Cascade hops and experimental Newport hops for a lemony orange-grapefruit tang resonating above caramelized Vienna malts and celery watering with proper acidic astringency.

For dessert, milky cocoa-fronted Hazelnut Oatmeal Stout let black chocolate, vanilla and espresso overtones and ancillary chocolate mint, cappuccino, coconut and biscotti oatmeal illusions receive tar-like hop bittering in the dewy midst.

On exquisite dinner visit, July ’24, ate Roasted Day Boat Cod while enjoying four differing Artisan’s elixirs.

Fuzzy peach sweetness gained powdered candy citric tartness above the sweet honey-lacquered wheat spine of Peach Wheat Ale, allowing tertiary nectarine, apricot and tangerine fruiting to lightly engage.

Lemon-seeded blood orange tartness picked up lingering pine bittering for Blood Orange IPA, leaving mild peppery floral perfuming on the citric blitz.

Dry semi-sharp West Coast IPA let dewy peat moss sink into moderate lemony grapefruit bittering as distant peachy cologne settled alongside soft wood tones.

Updated dark ale, Porter, retained a nitro-like dry dark chocolate chalking for its maple molasses-sugared walnut and hazelnut illusions.

www.artisanstomsriver.com

J.J. BITTING

United States Brewpubs,

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NEW JERSEY – NORTH

In September 2004, I began an extensive journey through the Garden State, initially hitting Woodbridge’s J.J. BITTING BREWING, an easterly sea-bound alehouse in central Jersey just across Staten Island.

As I went along, sojourning to the State’s thirteen well-run brewpubs, it was easiest to divide Jersey in half via North and South sections.

Because two of New Jersey’s biggest urban areas (Trenton; Paterson) lack brewpub representation, I thought it’d be difficult for brewpub enthusiasts to recognize where all these small town suburban, rural, and seabound breweries throughout my home state were without getting ‘em lost on the journey. Therefore, I’ve split the map down the center and created North-South borders.

J.J. BITTING, based at an old red brick grain depot with archaic 3-story tower since 1997, flaunted rustic square bar with several TV’s and overhead toy locomotive encircling its perimeter. Crown Royal and Dewars insignias line its brick walls alongside other antiques. Midsection glass-encased brew tanks separated bar from stone-floored dining section while balcony area and back deck provided further seating.

Well portioned pub fare went well with admirable lighter brews mainstream patrons may enjoy, such as spicy floral-hopped lemony orange Garden State IPA, mildly bitter, raspberry-seeded, fructose-dabbed Raspberry Wheat Ale, spicy pale-malted Victoria’s Golden Ale and dry Saaz-hopped, wheat-chaffed, yellow-fruited lightweight Rat Pack Pilsner.

Heartier thirsts will lean towards hop-embittered, caramel-roasted, alcohol-astringent best seller, Avenel Amber.

Excellent cappuccino-milked, coffee-enriched, dry-bodied Cappa Cappa Crusher Porter, with its tertiary wood-charred tobacco chew and hazelnut illusions, proved worthy as dessert-like digestif.

Hung out with brewer, James Moss (replaced by Port 44 brewmeister, Chris Sheehan in October), during sweltering June ’11 afternoon, quaffing three previously untried potions. Moss, in his second year, worked at RAM in Tacoma before heading east. His well-rounded beers represent an array of American-styled elixirs.

Approachable hop-spiced WHALES Brew IPA boasted grapefruit-embittered, pine-combed, Cascade hop bitterness contrasting apple-candied apricot-cherry-tangerine tang.

Blackjack Stout placated its coffee-roasted brown chocolate frontage with ashen hop-charred oats, peat-smoked molasses malts, and black cherry nuances.

Best bet: cask-conditioned Barleywine, a cherry-bruised, prune-stewed, raisin-pureed, burgundy-spiced softie with creamy chocolate center, Scotch whiskey daub, and peat mossing.

As I finish my selections, dinnertime’s approaching and the bar fills up with casual businessmen and women getting off the train across the street. Meanwhile, midsection brew tanks ready summer seasonals such as Woodbridge Light, Strasse Hefeweizen, Raspberry Wheat and Triple XXX.

Good friend and experienced zymurgist Chris Sheehan reigned supreme since joining J.J. Bitting, October 2011 (leaving two years hence to start Bronx’s Gunhill Road Brewery) . After creating many fine adjunct brews at now-defunct Port 44 Newark and Manhattan’s still-thriving Chelsea Brewing Company, the slender Sheehan landed in Woodbridge to replace Oregon-bred James Moss (who left when his wife took a professional position in Massachusetts).

During my early December ’11 jaunt, I discovered four previously untried libations alongside Bitting’s delectable crabcake sandwich plus codfish and chips dish. Sheehan’s latest entry, the wryly-implied Rye Humor, worked fine as a well-balanced session beer less discriminating tastes will feel comfortable quaffing and more experienced thirsts won’t disparage. Its spicy rye entry brightens zesty foods while the dried orange tartness affably attenuates ancillary dry fig-date nuances.

Next up were two mocha-bound brews. The lighter hand-pumped Coal Train Porter – Cask brought peanut-shelled brown chocolate and cocoa-powdered acridity to tobacco-dried earthen peat, picking up auxiliary bark-parched dried fruit tartness over generously resin-hopped bittering.

“When the Chocolate Cherry Stout kicks, the regular porter will come out of the serving tank and we’ll tap it after Christmas,” Sheehan offers as I take a few healthy sips. “Then it’ll be on regular draught with plenty of time to settle. I expect it to be clearer and the carbonation will add effervescence. But I haven’t yet tasted it on the regular draught. I haven’t assessed the carbonation or taken measures to adjust it. The Palisades hops are pretty prominent and verge on American-styled citrus, but are not overly assertive. Some earthen English character comes through.”

The above-referenced Chocolate Cherry Stout, an aggressively English-styled fruited dark ale, bulges with bittersweet black chocolate resin above modest black and red cherry dryness, gaining tertiary roasted coffee, burnt caramel and café latte illusions for a completely robust dessert beer.

But Sheehan’s busiest and possibly best offering this afternoon may be the updated Woodbridge Winter Warmer. Its brown-sugared caramel malting gets inside the wintry cinnamon-toasted gingerbread, nutmeg, allspice and clove seasoning, leaving some perfumed ethanol residue at the chocolate-spiced finish.

“There’s a couple zingers in there as well, like juniper and cardamom” Sheehan claims after explaining his reticence towards making spiced beers. “What I like about it is it’s got a decent amount of hops in it, but the spice blend is evenly displayed. I detect the cardamom kernels and the ginger root I smashed up and put in there alongside ground ginger helps frame it. I brought it out before Thanksgiving.”

Sheehan goes on to say J.J. Bitting’s been doing the Winter Warmer every year, modeling his after past batches but putting his own special twist on the seasonal suds.

“As far as the malt base, it’s similar to the ones used in the past. The spices are similar, but may be more pronounced,” he concludes.

Due to over-eating at Artisan’s Restauranrt & Brewery, I missed out on JJ Bitting’s 15th annual anniversary party, March 10, 2012, where cable television’s Cake Boss, Buddy Valastro, brought a multi-tiered cake for everyone to enjoy at this established red-bricked Woodbridge landmark (the second oldest Jersey brewpub behind Milford’s Ship Inn). However, on Monday I’d get a chance to sample Bitting’s latest excellent fare.

As I enter the spacious brewpub-restaurant, owner Mike Cerami and head brewer Chris Sheehan are, just by chance, there to welcome me. I apologize to Chris for missing the Saturday shindig, but he’s probably too stoked about the latest Big Beers on hand to care.

First, he offers the busy Anniversary Abbey Ale, a splendidly honeyed Bastone yeast-draped full body bringing plum-sugared fig spicing to candi-sugared biscuit malts, cedar-etched Hallertau hops and briny white-peppered citrus. Its lemony orange tartness finds space amidst Cabernet, Sauvignon and tannic green grape nuances.

Next, Vintage Cherry Stout takes sensory control. While Chris maintains “it’s all about the cocoa” and tastes like “flour-less chocolate cake,” I propose a sweet Maraschino cherry nosing, whiskey-backed cherry cordial mouthfeel, brandied cherry kirsch salience and sour oaken cherry tartness rising above roasted mocha malts as well as dried fruiting (white apricot, prune, grape).

It’d be hard to top that. But bold 15th Anniversary celebrator, Barley Legal Barleywine, would certainly try. Its laid-back pear juicing, syrupy peach viscosity, red apple graze, tangerine tang and vanilla wafer subtlety received a persistent dry-hopped alcohol burn.

On cask, understated IPA soothed the savage beast with a delicately softer manifestation of the highly praised India Pale Ale style. Easygoing red, yellow and orange fruiting edged into red licorice notes while mild floral herbs trickled through.

On August 2012 one-hour stopover following Sandy Hook beach picnic, quaffed another fine Chris Sheehan elixir. Prodigious Onyxxx Stout brought embittered hop-charred coffee roast to creamy dark chocolate center, where vanilla bean, molasses, cocoa and anise richness deepened its ancillary hazelnut-cola influence.

www.njbrewpubs.com