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(CONCORD) RAPSCALLION BLESSING ARTISANAL HOPPY ALE

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zamber aleJohn Fortunato

Biscuit-y wheat and toasted hops propel fine russet-hued amber ale. Smitten honeyed almond-pecan illusions outlast gentle apricot perk, vinous grape murk, sour apple quirk, and herbal medicinal lurk while earthen vegetal passing and indistinct spicing barely make a dent. Brewery defunct: 2008.

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CONCORD PALE ALE

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zpale aleJohn Fortunato

Mellow watery dryness retains dim orange-tangerine tang and subtle wheat influence as docile hop finish lingers for soothing light-bodied sedation. Brewery defunct: 2008.

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CONCORD JUNCTION PORTER

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zmocha porterJohn Fortunato

Slender dark amber complements smoked malt dryness with roasted mocha-chocolate notion, but weak toasted barley-hop backbone too light-bodied for its class. Brewery defunct: 2008.

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CONCORD GRAPE ALE

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zfruit aleJohn Fortunato

Could a grape jam company succeed at making fine ales? Toned down purple grape aroma and lime-embittered unripe grape dryness overwhelmed by withered hop fizz and bland soda sweetness, managing to be fairly unique but not overly peculiar. Brewery defunct: 2008.

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(CONSORCIO) TIJUANA GUERA

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zlight lagerJohn Fortunato

Acrid ‘all-malt lager’ retains off-putting glutinous wheat souring and parched maize astringency. Offensive plastic chemical waft further damages doughy drear, floral lemon-peach aridity, and moldy grass-hay recess. Restrictive malt profile seems conflictive.

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(COMMONWEALTH) WILLIAM PENN COLONIAL-STYLE LAGER

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zpale lagerJohn Fortunato

Middling opaque amber medium body with white-breaded rye-pumpernickel toasting fades to mild spice-hopped nut-charred caramel malt refuse. Metallic twang disrupts glutinous wheat component before settling into astringent orange-candied sourness.

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COLUMBUS PALE ALE

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zpale aleJohn Fortunato

Stagnant clear copper dry body needs to deepen blanched grapefruit-peach bittering and tepid malt roasting ’cause woody Cascade hop astringency can’t carry the load. Bark-like mouthfeel feels right but cardboard finish and acetous aftertaste deprive further goodness.

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COLUMBUS OHIO HONEY WHEAT

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zwheat aleJohn Fortunato

True blue collar dark amber blonde ale pits raw wheat-maize earthiness against astringent honey bittering and sour grape esters, getting casually usurped by dry grassy finish. Toasted hop coarseness thickens adequate session beer.

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COLUMBUS 90 SHILLING ALE

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zscottish aleJohn Fortunato

Clear ruby amber Scottish-styled ale integrates smoked tobacco and black tea illusions with comely roasted caramel malt setting. Mild toasted hops simmer beneath smooth moderate body.

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COLUMBUS APRICOT ALE

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zapricot aleJohn Fortunato

Chalky fruit ale starts fine with sweet peach cobbler aroma, but washed out apricot acidity, bitter phenol hopping, and diacetyl maize-wheat backdrop ruin momentum to dismal laminated finish. Chintzy blueberry-nectar reminder barely suffices.

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(COLD SPRING) RED ASS BUCKIN’ A PALE ALE

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zpale aleJohn Fortunato

Label’s kickin’ mule welcomes fine unassuming 6% alcohol brew as assured fruited spicing and persistent malted hop dryness reminiscent of holiday ale styling. Smooth honeyed flow welcomes amateur consumption.

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(COLD SPRING) RED ASS ALE

January 1, 2009Beers A-Zred aleJohn Fortunato

Well-hopped full body with refreshing Minnesota spring water, malt-thickened richness, and placid grain bitterness barely provides enough momentum to make it a bargain over mass-produced American ales.

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