CARTON PANZANELLA

“Evoking a classic midsummer salad” with its musky dry-hopped herbage, brusquely salted tomato-cucumber niche and faintly bruscetta-like backdrop, halfway intriguing 2014 limited edition (draft-only) pale ale needs firmer stylistic identity (though finding a referential pale ale seems impossible). Pungent garlic, onion and basil snips drift off post-haste. Less unique than gimmicky and coarse instead of sharp.

FLYING FISH NJ350 ANNIVERSARY ALE

On tap at The Office-Ridgewood, English strong ale spreads astringent Blackstrap molasses atop dry-honeyed rye malting, bark-dried pine hop bittering and sharp grapefruit-peeled orange rind resilience. Resounding alcohol-burnt vodka and gin whir seeps into the mix. In the bottle, dry plank wood tones drape syrupy Blackstrap molasses while honeyed malt sweetness contrasts tangy yellow grapefruit bittering.    

DOGFISH HEAD ROSABI

Quirky adjunct pale ale lets honey-soured citrus resonance soften mild wasabi herbage and ancillary horseradish heat.  For counterbalance, creamy caramel malts and red rice milking sweeten subtle resinous hop spicing as well as distant dank dewy mildewing. Another interestingly offbeat concoction from one of the most ambitiously experimental brewers on earth.

TERRAPIN GUANO LOCO

Enticing “ancho brownie ale” (loosely defined as a porter or strong ale) brings lightly roasted chili pepper burn to massive mocha malting and sedate nuttiness. Bittersweet black chocolate, dried cocoa and cacao nibs perfectly juxtapose heavenly jalapeno heat. Cola, hazelnut and salted nut illusions shuffle below the surface next to lesser molasses cookie, bourbon and cinnamon snips.