On tap at Taphouse Grill, middling amber lager needs deeper caramel malting, bitterer earthen hops and spicier fruiting to really take off. Nutty maple splurge and honeyed wheat bed turn to cardboard by musty citric-faded finish.
BAYOU TECHE LA 31 PASSIONNE
Nebulous passionfruit-infused wheat ale brings vague tropical-fruited tartness to biscuity pale malting, picking up wispy black peppered jalapeno burn to complement light lemon pith bittering and mild orange candied souring. Pulpy passionfruit wisp and evaporative pineapple, guava, plantain, pomegranate and kiwi undertones need bigger push forward to deepen conviction. Musty earthiness, sharp metallic twinge and soapy finish deplete acidic fruitiness.
YARDS PYNK BERRY ALE
Thin pinkish-hued moderation regales musky raspberry-soured oaken cherry lambic yeast with vinous lemon-juiced tannic grape dryness and sweet-tart citric candied pucker. Damp-wooded barnyard funk and musty horseblanket rusticity gird overall acridity. Ancillary cranberry-sauced Jolly Rancher watermelon souring fades away.
(UNICORN) ROBINSON’S IRON MAIDEN TROOPER
Inspired by heavy metal vocalist Bruce Dickinson (of Iron Maiden), nominal moderation drapes light caramel malting and hesitant corn-sugared sweetness across mild citric-perfumed Cascade hop bittering. Lemony tea midst ransacked by phenol spicing at biscuity pale-malted bottom.
DOHERTY’S ALE HOUSE
Conveniently located next to Courtyard By Marroit and La Quinta hotels just off Route 95 in a freestanding brown and gray vintage mill, Warwick-based DOHERTY’S ALE HOUSE opened in January ’13. Serving a remarkably copious 124 tapped craft beers alongside Americana and Cajun-styled cuisine, the roomy barn stable-like wood interior features a spacious central bar (with 3 TV’s and a large ‘Craft Beer’ insignia), several oak booths, seperate left side family dining space, massive exposed pipes and wood-pillared ceiling.
My wife and kids grab a pew near the burnt sienna-hued right wall next to the glass-encased private event room for a Saturday lunch in September ’13. Classic sandwiches, fish ‘n chips, ribs, bacon-wrapped pork chops and burgers fill the menu. We share cheese-dipped pretzel balls before munching down Beer Can Chicken, jambalaya and a muffeletta (with provolone cheese, Genoa salami and capacola). Besides the awesome draught beers, Doherty’s also offers well-selected spirits, original cocktails and Beer Fusions such as Banana Split (Youngs Double Chocolate Stout with Wells Banana Bread), Dirty Hoe (Murphys Stout with Hoegaarden) and Scarlet Begonia (Lindemans Framboise with champagne and orange juice).
I settle on two previously untried libations while consuming the generous food portions. First up, Foolproof King Of The Yahd Imperial IPA brought wood-dried grapefruit rind bittering, tart orange peel briskness and gin-like juniper berry dryness to resinous hop fodder. Caramelized crystal malts contrast the overwhelming bitterness.
Afterwards, Two Roads Roads Mary’s Baby Pumpkin Ale allowed pumpkin puree spicing to saddle plastique gin-soaked boozing and astringent hop sharpness. For contrast, brown-sugared nutmeg, cinnamon and pecan illusions gained sweetness over time.
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Tossed back a few more untried brews during Johnson & Wales Parents weekend, October ’13. Alongside moist beercan chicken (with roasted Brussels sprouts and mashed potatoes), quaffed rye-fruited Smuttynose Rhye IPA and citric-crisped Magic Hat Humdinder Over The Pils (reviewed in Beer Index) while watching shocking upset of New England Patriots at the hands of long-time rivals, the Jets.
Thanks to Doherty’s, Track 84, Shannon View and Dave’s, Warwick has become one of New England’s premier craft beer towns.
SOUTHERN TIER WARLOCK IMPERIAL STOUT
Decadent garnet-blackened imperial stout layers creamily maple-sugared brown chocolate syrup atop autumnal pureed pumpkin spicing. Pumpkin-pied cinnamon, gingerbread and nutmeg resilience gains residual fern, pine nut and mint presence as well as a brusque floral hop snipe. Vanilla bean, hazelnut coffee, dark cocoa, toffee, peat whiskey and pancake batter illusions enrapture sweet pumpkin spicing at chewy mocha finish.
KEEGAN HELGA PILSNER
On tap at Andy’s Corner Bar, mellow yellow-paled light pilsner offers dry-hopped citric influence to grass-stained florality. Soft white wheat spine fades in the distance. Plain, approachable, easygoing and sessionable.
KEEGAN DIM WIT BELGIAN WHITE ALE
On tap at Andy’s Corner Bar, middling witbier brings sour yellow fruiting and perfume-hopped herbal musk to honeyed white wheat spine. Advertised orange peel and coriander influence seems to be an afterthought.
TWO ROADS ROADSMARY’S BABY PUMPKIN ALE
Affluent pumpkin puree spicing saddles plastique gin-soaked boozing and astringent hop sharpness up-front. For contrast, brown-sugared nutmeg, cinnamon and pecan illusions gain sweetness, picking up light vanilla sweetness over time. On tap at Blue Ribbon Tavern one year hence (2014), subtle rum barrel aging adds sweeter pumpkin affluence to cinnamon-nutmeg-allspice spicing, picking up peppier carbolic spritz, friskier hop snap and gluey paper mache pasting.
HARPOON SAISON VARIOUS
By blending four barrel-aged saisons into a sturdy farmhouse ale, likable citric-soured medium body shows off not-so-subtle complexities. Orange-peeled lemon-peach-quince-pineapple conflux, estery green-yellow grape tartness and musky herbal spunk affect prickly black-peppered yeast funk. A dash of coriander, white peppercorn and clove regale the busy backend.
FOOLPROOF KING OF THE YAHD IMPERIAL IPA
On tap at Doherty’s Ale House, bitterer, richer and reedier version of Foolproof Backyahd India Pale Ale brings wood-dried grapefruit rind bittering, tart orange peel briskness and gin-like juniper berry dryness to resinous hop fodder. Caramelized crystal malts contrast the overwhelming bitterness. Tertiary pineapple, peach and tangerine tang brightens the potent mix.
BALLAST POINT VICTORY AT SEA IMPERIAL PORTER
Notorious full-bodied ‘coffee vanilla’ flavored dark ale seamlessly combines complex mocha, anise and hard liquor adjuncts. Creamy molasses-smoked black chocolate malting drapes roasted coffee bittering, rich vanilla bean extract, chewy cookie dough yeast, gooey black licorice sinew and dark whiskey-toned bourbon-burgundy snip. Tertiary coconut, cacao nibs, hazelnut, espresso, cappuccino, pecan and marshmallow illusions reinforce mocha theme, picking up mild jalapeno-like peppering along the way. Betters French vanilla coffee.
