Pleasantly hybridized holiday-spiced witbier (circa 2012) brings wispy white-peppered Yuletide seasoning to sweet orange-peeled lemondrop sugaring. Evenly spread cinnamon, nutmeg, gingerbread, clove, coriander and allspice niceties strengthen Seltzer-like citric nuances to mild honeyed wheat backbone. Moderate amber-hazed smoothie will soothe lighter thirsts.
Underwhelming yellow-paled “Vintage Age” witbier hybrid offers Sauvignon Blanc enhancement to smoothly buttered light-bodied fluff. Musty white grape tannins breach subtle white wining as floral hyacinth, lotus and hibiscus reminders fall away too quickly. Aromatic cider undertones stationed below Chardonnay and pinot grigios hints proliferate to sourdough underbelly.
Unusual purple-paled complexion greets Sauvignon Cabernet red grape wining. Soft green and purple grape tannins as well as sweet strawberry-blueberry-boysenberry conflux creates underlying pleasantries to moderate-bodied subtlety. Earthen bottom parches mild vanilla-dabbed Sauvignon finish. In comparison, Impulse retains better clarity and taste than competing 2012 “Vintage Age” Proximity.
Indistinct vanilla-chocolate front end diminishes over time. Barren coffee, cocoa bean and black chocolate notes drift shapelessly over ashen hop astringency and nasty diacetyl buttering. Dark toffee clip, light bourbon snip, distant hazelnut nip and wavered gingerbread snap fade too quickly below complacent mocha-backed vanilla finish. On tap, fading vanilla-chocolate sweetness deprived by ashen nuttiness.
Inscrutable moderate-bodied nut brown ale lacks specificity. Blatant diacetyl oiliness and phenol hop astringency deplete honey-roasted peanut, hazelnut, walnut and coal nut drift as well as mild dark toffee creaming, brown chocolate smidge and light vanilla snip.
Disappointingly amorphous English pale ale tries re-creating prohibition-era bottlegger fodder in bland manner. Phenol hop astringency and diacetyl buttering ransack vapid lemon-apple-pear fruiting. Metallic tinge and ethanol burn coarsen thin corn-dried backend.
ESSEX, CONNECTICUT
In rustic seafaring village, Essex, a stones-throw from the marina, lies historic GRISWOLD INN. Its colonial-styled white-painted exterior and forest green shutters bring a Classical provincial appeal to this landmark 1776-built restaurant-hotel.
Old wood furnishings and dozens of framed nautical photographs line the multi-room facility where several private Christmastime parties take hold this Friday afternoon in mid-December ’12. My wife and I settle behind the Tap Room in the caliginous dining area to enjoy hummus and clam chowder with Griswold Inn’s one and only perfectly centrist beer.
Not sure who truly brews Griswold’s proprietary Revolutionary Ale, but its pleasant red-orange fruit spicing and creamy honey-roasted caramel malting contrast the wispy vegetal-tinged sea-salted hop bite in a very demure manner.
For wine lovers, several worthy pinot grigios, pinot noirs, Chardonnays, Merlots and Sauvignons are available. Enjoy the Essex Steam Train and Riverboat when in town as well.
Engaging blue-bottled 12th anniversary celebrator brings restrained dark chocolate roast and subtle cocoa nibs influence to ascending chipotle-peppered habanero burn. Bittersweet molasses-soaked raisin thickness penetrates the reservedly creamy mocha interior. Dried cereal oats and flaked corn caress the mild hop-charred bittering that stimulates the throat-parched habanero heat.
