Musty fruited Belgian-styled wheat ale fails to properly unfurl mild morningtime complexities. Desolate candi-sugared cherry frontage and aromatic raspberry wisp intercepted by weak banana bubblegum sugaring. Washed-out watermelon-strawberry-honeydew-kiwi reminder, polite mandarin orange snip and recessive rhubarb-pomegranate nip barely register. By the watery finish, carbolic Seltzer fizz overrides faded tropical flavors.
INNIS & GUNN SPICED RUM FINISH (a.k.a. RUM CASK)
Randomly redundant rumrunner (the updated 2012 version of Rum Cask) may be a tad creamier and richer than I & G’s original whiskey-cask pleasantries, but a few subtle differences make soft-toned offshoot washed-out by its soapier Scotch-dried rum finish. Unlike the original Rum Cask, the newer ‘spiced rum’ version’s crystal-malted vanilla spicing and dainty pecan sweetness fade in the stretch. In need of a thick varnishing instead of a single coat.
SIXPOINT AUTUMNATION
Atypical autumnal ale with freshly wet green hops and citric fruiting pushing it stylistically towards an IPA and away from a traditional pumpkin ale. Wavered grapefruit-orange bittering and unexpected ginger seasoning overtake any appreciable pumpkin influence. Harvest-grained minerality and resinous white-peppered bite lost in overwhelming carbolic fizz. Wispy guava, mango and kiwi undertones get washed-out alongside any gourd remnant.
RIVER HORSE RYE I.P.A.
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, fine citric-spiced medium body from worthy Brewers Reserve series circa 2012. Bright orange-tangerine tang and ascending grapefruit-peeled juniper bittering reinforce mild dry hop bite over fading rye malt base. Sugary juicy fruiting contrasts flagging wet wood remnant before bitter citric hops coat the finish.
AIDAN’S PUB & GRUB
BRISTOL, RHODE ISLAND
Across the harbor inside a gold-painted maroon-trimmed corner building, AIDAN’S PUB & GRUB is Bristol’s best craft beer bar (competing favorably with Wakefield’s superfine Mew’s 15 miles south). Its rustic low-ceiling first floor bar is reminiscent of an Irish pub with its wood furnishings, cozy bar and Guinness-sponsored menu. A side deck provides extra seating and the smaller upstairs bar counters a comfortable dining area where a large TV shows the National League playoff game between the Giants and Cardinals this Friday evening in mid-October 2012.
I reach for an Offshore Beach Road Nut Brown brewed by a nearby Nantucket brewery (reviewed in the Beer Index) while chowing on Shepherd’s Pie. My son orders the Dublin Pot Pie while my wife and daughter nibble on turkey sandwiches. The worthy pub fare also includes Black Angus steak, chops, seafare and large customized desserts. Aidan’s deservedly boasts the title, “Official St. Patrick’s Day Headquarters.” But you don’t have to be Irish to enjoy the intimate casual atmosphere and ’88 Beers From Around The World’ when visiting this busy harborside retreat.
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Revisited Aidan’s a year later with wife and kids during Roger Williams family weekend on a crisp October ’13 Saturday at dinner time. This time, we sat in the homey left side dining room, a pristine family area featuring a ski lodge-like slate hearth and a few wood Guinness signs on the walls. I downed the moist Limerick Burger with bacon while family enjoyed turkey club, Cajun chicken and chicken pot pie.
For a beverage, I chose Utah’s Squatters Hop Rising Double IPA, a brusque floral-citric medium body contrasting juniper-hopped grapefruit bittering and resinous pine sap with tangy orange-tangerine-mango-pineapple fruiting (full review in Beer Index).
COASTAL WINE & SPIRITS
COASTAL WINE & SPIRITS
Just off Route 95 on North Main Street in Branford at a newish shopping mall lies COASTAL WINE & SPIRITS. This warehouse-sized liquor store offers the greatest selection of craft beers in the state of Connecticut as of October 2012. While perusing Coastal’s varied selection, salesman Jeff Corcoran provided help finding previously untried brews from Boss, Clown Shoes, Emelisse, Evil Twin, Moa, Omnipollo, Porterhouse and Stillwater. Prices were reasonable and the knowledgeable staff treat customers with ultimate respect.
GREY SAIL STARGAZER RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT
On tap at Track 84, excellent 2012 limited edition full body retains dryer stylistic intrigue. Up-front dark and brown chocolate overtones receive nifty bourbon whiskey serenade over wood-charred hop roast to ample nutty bottom. Roasted coffee, vanilla, molasses and black cherry caress supplemental soy-sauced cacao seeding.
BRECKENRIDGE THUNDER STOUT NITRO
On tap at Track 84, subtle nitro-creamed dry stout stays soft on the tongue. Black chocolate malting and nutty hop-charred splurge receive smoked rauchbier-like afterburner. Black cherry, vanilla and cappuccino undertones caress oats-toasted backend.
SHMALTZ HE’BREW HOP MANNA I.P.A.
On tap at Track 84, soothingly medium-bodied IPA will gain acceptance with softer pale ale palates. Ripe peach, pineapple, pear and apple illusions contrast mild hop-spiced pine-needled grapefruit bittering above sugary crystal malting. Evergreen freshness pervades fruited floral bouquet.
NEWPORT STORM INDIA POINT I.P.A.
On tap at Track 84, 2012-initiated dry body brings woody hop resin to bitter lemon-peeled grapefruit rind. Bark-dried pine tones and leathery floral supplement contrast Munich cara-malting. Orange, clementine and peach illusions stay distant.
MIDNIGHT SUN ARCTIC RHINO COFFEE PORTER
Dominant dry coffee bean essence and smooth clean-watered crisping override reedy hop-charred bittering. Dark-roasted chocolate malting and murky black cherry undertones struggle finding ground as fiery butane-oiled acridity derails initail java promise.
OFFSHORE BEACH ROAD NUT BROWN ALE
Ashen dry-bodied walnut char infiltrates blackened hop bittering, mild black chocolate malting and recessive black coffee niche. Blackstrap molasses, hazelnut, fig and date suffocated by burnt toast astringency.
