DRIE HORNE BANANATANA

Sultry fruit ale too washed-out and unassertive. Easygoing dessert treat combines flittering banana-skinned plantain placidity, squelched banana-leafed tranquility and pureed banana cream-pied ambiguity above mild peppery hop astringency. Advertised sultana (golden raisin) influence is a non-factor. Under-whelming banana liqueur nip and light vanilla sweetness quashed by soapy spell.

CIGAR CITY MARSHAL ZHUKOV’S IMPERIAL STOUT

Delightfully complex lactose stout (with frothy brown-tanned head and viscous mahogany body) loads milky brown chocolate creaminess atop nutty dried fruiting. Devil’s food-caked dark chocolate pudding entry and oats-toasted caramelized toffee impulse deepen serene mochaccino-cappuccino conflux. At midst, hazelnut, almond, cashew and honey nut illusions emboss ashen Blackstrap molasses bittering to contrast maple-sugared vanilla sweetness. Tertiary black grape, black cherry and blackberry wisp amplifies burgundy-bourbon-port wining caressing big chocolate finish consuming desirable dessert beer.

ALLAGASH VRIENDEN

On tap at Barcade, amiable golden-hued wild ale stays less frenzied than brewers’ Thing 1 and Confluence. Leathery citric-embittered barnyard acridity (typical of champagne-dried Belgian gueuze styling) spreads mouth-puckering brettanomyces souring all over tart lemon-juiced oaken cherry parch, piquant Granny Smith apple scruff, murky white grape esters and advertised dandelion-elderberry snip. Acetous white-wined raspberry vinaigrette rasp increases vinous vinegar vigor.

ALLAGASH BOURBON BLACK

On tap at Barcade, choice Jim Beam bourbon-barreled version of Belgian-styled dark ale known as ‘Black’ brings smooth oaken vanilla soothe to Concord grape, black grape and black cherry fruiting as well as mocha-bound barley-oats toasting. Mild bourbon-burgundy wining provides overall warmth and elegance deepening black chocolate, espresso and crème brulee nuances ascending above ancillary black-peppered star anise spicing.