TWO BROTHERS DOMAINE DU PAGE FRENCH STYLE COUNTRY ALE

Rustic amber-coppered ‘biere de garde’ opens with gunky saison fruiting and dewy earthen fungi contrasting addictive caramel-toasted vanilla bean creaminess. Green apple tartness, red grape sweetness and navel orange tang counter dry grain bitterness. Flowery hop aromatics usurp warm maple tone, losing resilience and giving way to ashen acridity. Severe alcohol burn may turn off lighter thirsts. French-styled barleywine essence may be overstated.

TWO BROTHERS DOG DAYS DORTMUNDER STYLE LAGER

On tap, murky fruity malt aroma fits dark berry pleasantries and nut grain bitterness like a glove. Teasing hops tickle the tongue while impenetrable caramel malts provide much-needed assertion. A smidgen less imaginative and too watery and inconsequential than serious Dortmunder-styled lager competition. In bottle, dank-smelling German-styled light body brings unwanted metallic twinge to phenol citric-berry lark, benign sourdough breading, and washed-out nut grain bittering. Impenetrable caramel malting needs better assertion and leathery straw-hay earthiness gets acrid. Off-putting corn-oiled splotch blotches floral-spiced alacrity.

(TWO BROTHERS) BONFIRE DUNKLE WEISS

Phenol murky brown dark wheat ale comes up short in limited ’08 release. For starters, dry-bodied banana souring needs to be pushed forward. Next, its lack of spicy clove-coriander sweetness, dearth of pineapple-orange fruiting, and off-putting smoked peat malting mire cocoa-tinged raisin-prune-fig tartness. Finally, moldy earthen usurpation ruins bland yellow-fruited finish. Busily muddled 2012 version chucked sweet and sour banana tartness in all directions, expanding stylish boundaries as unexpected beechwood smoking cluttered vinous red grape coarseness, musty grape-stemmed Muscat wining and yellow raisin snip.