Complex blend of bitter-hopped curacao orange briskness, buttery white wine-like effervescence, and delicate floral spicing provides busy template for refreshing fluffy white-headed tawny ale. Billowing artisan water softens citric load. On tap, sour wheat-backed banana sweetness and mild lemon tang greet mint-y clove freshness.
All posts by John Fortunato
CHIMAY PERES TRAPPISTES – PREMIERE ALE
Adventurously heady silk-textured artesian ‘premiere’ ale remits muted ester-y grape nose as prickly hops tingle tongue and creamy caramel malts caress red-wined warmth. At midst, herbaceous floral bouquet deepens oak-aged bruised orange, tart cherry, and dried prune. Latent pecan, fig, banana, and nectar illusions counter cellar-like fungi earthiness. Loud port finish retains medicinal soured candy charm. Ultimately rewarding as slow sipping relaxant.
CHIMAY PERES TRAPPISTES – GRANDE RESERVE ALE
Brewed by Trappist monks in Belgium since 1862 and recommended to any seasoned drinker, iconoclastic ruddy-hued butterscotch-candied strong ale (with boozy bourbon-sherry-port twinkle) enlivens plummy prune musk with radiant white wine resilience and tangy black cherry compote waver and caramelized chocolate malt response, sweetening the perfectly mellow mood with finely detailed flavor profile. Buttery yeast and caramelized chocolate malts contrast peppery hops in unique manner while sedate clove-spiced grape-date-fig splat lingers.
CHIMAY PERES TRAPPISTES – CING CENTS TRIPEL ALE
Billowy tan foam crowds spicy dried fruiting of fragrant rust-hued top-fermented ale. Though not as astringently alcoholic as most creamy Belgian tripels, sweet sugarplum surge, mildewed Muscat grape musk, hard cider consistency, prudent sour citrus placement, and overall velvety smooth elegance form dynamic combination. Lively orange-peeled black currant bittering perks peppery hops before sinewy candi-sugared yeast luster enhances moderate honey-glazed malt finish.
CHIHUAHUA MEXICAN LAGER
Distinct agave-tequila aroma hits the nose as soon as bottle opens. Best with lemon twist. More full-bodied and hop-pepped than most Mexican brews.
(CHICAGO’S) LEGACY RED ALE
Nearly unscented, brownish so-called ‘Legacy’ has cheerful red ale nuances (peppy hops, roasted malts, cracked wheat) countering minor sour fruiting. But second-rate finish lacks fortitude. Brewery defunct: 2002.
(CHICAGO’S) BIG SHOULDERS PORTER
Immaculate sweet-scented dark brown porter brewed in the Windy City since the 1800’s in the Great English tradition, Big Shoulders leads with a great chocolate punch and finishes with hop-charred roasted coffee assertiveness. Though stout-like with its maple mocha presence and burnt caramel malts, it’s smooth going down and perfect as a crossover. Brewery defunct: 2002.
CHERNOMOR ODESSA GOLD LAGER
Hideous dry-bodied straw-hued white-headed lager with wavering orange-peeled lemon rind bitterness, spicy hop astringency, and evaporative malt sweetness gains harsh chemical acidity plus dank soapiness.
CHERNOMOR EXTRA LAGER
Pungent doughy aroma-mouthfeel fits funky malt souring, cracked wheat sweetness, and flaked barley crusting. Barest orange hint aids dry moderation.
CHELSEA TSAR’S REVENGE IMPERIAL STOUT
Quaffed on tap at Barcade in Brooklyn with then-Chelsea promoter Ron Carlson. Robust black-as-coal full body brings opulent roasted coffee ground bittering to sticky anise, dark chocolate, and cocoa bean embrace. Harsh wood-charred acridity exceeds charcoal, tobacco chaw, and raw molasses illusions. Liqueur-stained port notes linger behind java penetration. Carlson agreed, ‘bitter blaster would benefit from better counteractive residual sugaring.’
CHELSEA SUNSET RED ALE
Hearty, briskly carbolic, medium-bodied red ale integrates sweet mocha malt splurge with sharp piney hop spine and resinous mineral grain depth. Juxtaposed ripe red fruit tartness counters sour pink grapefruit bite rather well.
CHELSEA DRY IRISH STOUT
On tap, beige-headed Irish-styled dry stout embellishes frisky carbolic hop char with rye-malted chocolate roast to compact wheat basin, simmering to surprisingly light-bodied smoked mocha-nut finish. Lively on the tongue yet lacking robust creaminess prominent Guinness Stout offers.