On tap at Plank Pizza, underwhelming German roggenbier (with unfulfilled rauchbier influence) does avoid soapiness of many Americanized models, but its toned down beechwood-smoked rye malting lacks serious meat-cured salami endurance despite the perky black peppered citrus insistence.
All posts by John Fortunato
FORGOTTEN BOARDWALK FREQUENCY MODULATION
Peculiar ‘modern twist’ on hefeweizen provides dry-hopped Earl Grey tea-like Wai-iti & Idaho 7 hop combo to not quite traditional lemon-soured banana tartness as green grape tannins, white peachiness and plantain starching dabble with drifting herbal misting. An awkwardly nifty easygoer.
JUGHANDLE GATEWAY WHITE
Sitting gently on the tongue, dryer than usual witbier brings stylishly zestful lemony orange spritz, modest coriander-spiced banana sweetness and caramelized plantain wisps to musky fungi-like herbal yeast musting above sugared sourdough base.

NESHAMINY CREEK BEACH FUZZ
On tap at Tavern 5, tarter witbier utilizes Pez-like peach puree conditioning and herbal Saaz hop cellar funk above mild flaked oats base. Lemon-candied peach fuzz picks up mildly acidic green grape esters.
EVIL TWIN NYC ONLY IN NEW YORK…CONTINUED
On tap at Kitchen & Beer Bar, clouded beige golden double dry-hopped pale ale receives briskly citrus-spiced IPA-like Citra-Cashmere-Mosiac hop thrust. Waxy tropical fruiting shows off zestful orange peeled mango, peach and tangerine tanginess contrasted by withered pine tones above wavered sourdough malts.
BLU ALEHOUSE BLU ALE
A better than average American pale ale styled after an English Special Bitter made for Blu Ale restaurant chain circa 2022. Gin-soaked lemony orange spicing drapes soft buttery truffle-like earthiness and Scotch-nipped pleasantry of an ESB.
INTERBORO FINEST LAGER
On tap at Plank Pizza, ‘standard’ soft-toned pale straw light lager counters grassy Noble-hopped orange-oiled herbal astringency with doughy white bread buttering, but gluey paper grouting seems misplaced.
DEPARTED SOLES BOARDWALK BULLY LAGER
On tap at Plank Pizza, aluminum cleared light lager with salted lemon prickle and tart orange oiling slides into pasty pale malting while lacking distinction.

CAPE MAY LONGLINER LAGER
Crisp aluminum cleared bohemian moderation retains easygoing flow as muskily dry Saphir-Saaz hop herbage and mild tobacco roast softly serenade blanched pilsner-malted toasted French breading.
GRIMM LITE LAGER
On tap at Plank Pizza, soft ‘n fuzzy light lager retains feathery flow as spritzy lemon zesting and grassy hop astringency fade atop corn-dried wheat cracker base.
JACK’S ABBY HOUSE LAGER
On tap at Plank Pizza ’22, simply smooth helles lager provides muskily rustic Noble hop herbage, brisk lemon twist, pasty clay grouting and meager orange-oiled lemongrass snips to delicate salted cracker base, besting most stylistic competitors. On tap at Growler & Gill ’20, pleasant helles lager drapes dewy peat moss, dry stalked corn and grassy hop astringency over mild doughy wheat base. A fine rustic moderation.
BOLERO SNORT TOROPILS
On tap at Plank Pizza, mellowly understated Italian pilsner plies dry Hallertau Blanc-hopped green grape tannins and candied lemon spritz to polite salted cracker base.