Whispery straw-paled Berliner Weisse with ‘Napoleanic sour streak’ places lactic citrus tartness and subtle limestone bittering above delicate wheat-flaked pilsner malts. Kettle-soured lemon zest, green lime and tannic white grape illusions receive stylish briny salting. At the salty lemon-limed finish, plain yogurt tang adds delicate intrigue to low alcohol delight.
All posts by John Fortunato
FLYING DOG DOPPELBOCK
Gruff for its style (and circulated as part of 2014 ‘rarities’ series), medium-full-bodied doppelbock blends dewy earthen musk and sharp hop char into expectant Vienna-malted dried fruiting. Burgundy-wined raisin, plum and prune illusions pick up likable black cherry puree snip at black chocolate-spiced midst. Gunky fruitcake finish holds steady.
SARANAC LONG JOHN LAGER
TERRAPIN MOO-HOO CHIATO CHOCOLATE ESPRESSO MILK STOUT
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, exemplary chocolate-espresso blend retains refreshingly clean-watered crisping. Delicately creamed milk chocolate sweetness and lactic-sugared vanilla surge pleat neutral cocoa nibs midst. Mellow espresso macchiato roast deepens mocha resolve. Wispy jalapeno burn stays recessive.
HARPOON LEVIATHAN CZERNOBOG
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, impressive 2014 Leviathan offshoot proves worthy. Smoky dark-roasted mocha malts and unsweetened black chocolate chalking lead the way over moderate hop-charred bittering. Caramel-burnt espresso charm deepens mighty mocha mainframe. Dark-fruited black cherry, raisin and fig undertones bring up the rear next to tertiary vanilla, chocolate truffle and molasses illusions.
DOGFISH HEAD BEER THOUSAND
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, subtle Imperial Lager inspired by Guided By Voices underground rock classic, “Bee Thousand,” ties peaty Scotch licks to varied fruited nuances. Wafting perfumed hops delicately enhance soft-toned apple, peach, strawberry and banana illusions as well as vinous grape wisp. Fusel alcohol nip spikes sweet Scotch frontage.
BOULEVARD SMOKESTACK COLLABORATION #4 SPICED SAISON
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, excellent collaboration between broad-minded Kansas City brewer and Belgian-inspired New York mainstay, Ommegang, utilizes unique house yeast from blended batches. Lemony orange rind sedation, brisk yellow grapefruit tartness and white grape tannins spiced up by white-peppered grassy hops. Pink peppercorn pep enlivens honeyed grain base.
BOULEVARD POP-UP SESSION IPA
PRAIRIE ARTISAN BOMB!
On tap at Ambulance Brew House, elaborate full-bodied dark ale drops hop-charred coffee bean roast atop sedate black chocolate creaming and mild ancho chili peppering. Espresso and vanilla bean influence deepens rich mocha persistence as dry bourbon wining and sweet blackberry nuances ascend. Hazelnut coffee, caramel latte, cocoa nibs and cappuccino illusions swirl beneath. Simply irresistible.
PRAIRIE ARTISAN PRAIRIE ALE
Uniquely hybridized Oklahoman saison drops subtle brettanomyces acidity onto citric-candied tartness and white wine yeast tannins. Lemony grapefruit-pineapple-mango fruiting as well as astringent black-peppered Saaz hop spicing override cane-sugared banana, clove and coriander reminder caressing soft wheat-flaked spine.
SCHLAFLY IMPERIAL STOUT AGED IN BOURBON BARRELS
Paramount Kentucky bourbon-barreled Imperial Stout (2014) loads dark cocoa sugaring and creamy black chocolate malting upon sharply embittered hop char. Oaken bourbon vanilla sweetness magnifies up-front mocha resonance and ascending coffee bean roast. After a few sips, chewy anise spicing deepens its forward thrust as dark-fruited raisin, fig, prune and black cherry illusions settle below alongside caramel-toasted molasses, hazelnut, burnt marshmallow and creme de cocoa snips. Buttery smooth bourbon luster perfectly complements milky chocolate-cocoa affluence.
DARK HORSE BOURBON BARREL PLEAD THE 5TH IMPERIAL STOUT
On tap at Ambulance Brew House, tight bourbon-barreled stout (with well-hidden 11% ABV) bursts forth with dark and brown chocolate richness. Serene bourbon vanilla warmth pleats creamy mocha frontage as well as oats-charred hop bittering, latent anise sugaring and dark-roasted coffee sentiment. Ancillary molasses, vanilla and coca nibs illusions increase fortitude.