On tap at Redlight Redlight, ultra-dry saison-like yellow fruiting gains substantial sourness from astringent farmhouse-wafted brettanomyces funk. Zesty lemon spritz, juicy yellow grapefruit tartness and desiccated tangerine-apricot rot regale light grassy-hopped bittering. Herbaceous peppercorn-basil-rosemary seasoning, leathery horseblanket acridity and musty vegetal snip add rustic backdrop.
On tap at Redlight Redlight, thrilling ‘immaculate collaboration’ between Cathedral Square and Shmaltz loads Belgian candi-sugared yeast to IPA-related citric fruiting. Tangy grapefruit, pineapple and navel orange frontage and zesty lemon juicing pick up peppery resinous hop bittering. Latent cookie dough sweetness and caraway-seeded rye breading reach burnt caramel spine.
On tap at Redlight Redlight, confusingly updated bock (2013) allows musky earthen rusticity to enjoin dewy peat mossing for dryer-than-expected copper-bronzed dunkelweizen changeup. Snubbing the usual dark fruited holiday spicing for molasses-buttered nutbread insistence and tobacco roasted crisping, its brown-sugared fruitcake dalliance fades precipitously alongside the wispy caramel malt backbone.
Rich Belgian-styled quad loads brown-sugared dried fruiting inside sharp hop-spiced caramel malting. Raisin, fig and prune overtones sweetened further by ancillary cherry jubilee tartness. Dark rum, bourbon and burgundy boozing adds warmth.
Uncanny saison feels more like a doughy hefeweissen with its Challah-breaded baguette resonance and honeyed wheat base outlasting stylish yellow fruit-spiced tartness. White-peppered lemon meringue, cake-battered key lime pie and bubble-gummy bruised banana illusions struggle for space as sourdough flouring gains prominence.
A bit complacent for a Belgian-styled pale ale, though mild hop-spiced lemon zestiness retains brisk crisping. Herbal lemongrass snip and passive clove dusting fade at sourdough-breaded baguette bottom.
Complacent soft-toned pale body contrasts raw-honeyed orange-candied tartness with wispy caramel malt creaming. Sharp hop bittering and fuzzy diacetyl oiling nullify wavered tropical fruiting.
On tap at Tap & Grind, mellow light-bodied Belgian blonde ale provides soft habanero-like Muscadine peppering to mild peppercorn herbage and sedate citric-hopped frisk. An easygoing hybrid with just the right amount of peppery accents for blue collar imbibers and veteran beer geeks alike.
On tap at Tap & Grind, approachable moderate-bodied India Pale Ale (4th installment of citric-hopped varietal) spreads dry wood parch across subtle grapefruit-peeled pineapple, apricot and mandarin orange illusions. Perfumed citrus finish lingers elegantly.
On tap at Tap & Grind, soft honeyed spicing lingers gently alongside initial bruised yellow fruiting and sedate resinous piney hop bittering. Lemony yellow grapefruit, pineapple and tangerine tartness politely engages carbolic Seltzer fizz.
On tap at Tap & Grind, ‘poundable’ citra-hopped India Pale Ale retains scintillating sessionable subtlety. Herbaceous floral-perfumed citrus dryness anchored by resinous earthen graining and light caramel malting. Soft lemon, grapefruit, orange, apricot and pineapple tang picks up piney evergreen freshness as well as pungent vegetal respite. A well-balanced crossover for lighter drinking ale heads.
ORLANDO, FLORIDA
Across from the Orlando Fire Department in a small downtown ground floor space carved out of a large parking garage just off Route 4 lies TAP & GRIND, a ‘psychedelicized’ beer-centric tavern that’s become a top destination spot alongside inspirational mentors, RedLight RedLight Beer Parlor. Retaining a relaxed folksy vibe and friendly intimacy, the cozy craft pub began operations during February ’12. And local loyal minions have sung its praises from the get-go.
Hands-on proprietor Jason Chan serves as congenial host for my wife and I as we settle in before dusk on a muggy Wednesday in early December ’13. A revolving Tap & Grind Craft Beer pole and windowed frontage (featuring neon Victory, Green Flash and Left Hand signs) welcome patrons to the narrow black-walled interior.
Celebrating nautical beachcombers as well as sporting landlubbers with ceiling-hung surfboards and wall-bound skateboards, visiting Chan’s delightful cavern is like slipping into a fascinating underground artists’ subterranean digs. Two blackboards list the well-chosen tapped selections and indigenous Florida cypress wood furnishings adorn the 14-seat bar, strewn benches, community tables and trusses. A visually enlightening blue wave gives the bar a bright oceanic atmosphere surrounding one large TV. Provocative philosophical quotes appear when the black lights are turned on in the glow-in-the-dark bathrooms.
Reggae legend Bob Marley gets saluted with memorabilia and a large poster as “Roots Rock Reggae” plays in the background and I get set to imbibe a few previously untried local brews.
“I love beer and started drinking imports after branching away from Bud Lite,” Chan explains while I dig into Green Room 400 Beer Storm IPA and Green Room Royal Palm Belgian Blond (from Jacksonville Beach). “I was hooked on Bud Lite like cigarettes. Then I discovered Killians Red, Guinness and Beck’s. That was when American brewers began crafting better beer. Americans are doing the best job of brewing now. I completely respect English, German and Belgian beer. We borrowed from all those styles and are now better.”
A cool dude with noble intentions, Chan just expanded his rotating tapped selections from 16 to 20 and a refrigerator next to the bar carries 40-plus bottled beers. Though the current landscape for locals is to party hard, he believes they need to be more cultured. And that’s where the prolific Florida craft beer movement comes in.
“We feel we’re giving back to America and it makes me sleep well at night,” Chan quips.
Starting with RedLight Red Light and Rossi’s Italian Restaurant as well as the proliferation of Orlando Brewing Company, Central Florida’s beer scene has increased by leaps and bounds since my last visit nearly a decade hence.
As darkness settles in, I quaff two more worthy local beers: Fort Lauderdale-based Funky Buddha Crusher and Orange Blossom Pilsner Back In The Day IPA (all beers mentioned reviewed in Beer Index).
Before leaving, the gracious Chan shares a few Brouwerij West beers from San Diego while associate Megan Cheeks serves Dogfish Head Piercing Pils. The daughter of Orlando Brewing’s co-owner, John Cheeks, she recently developed Girl Stout, a peppermint-leafed dark ale with cocoa nibs that received plaudits from everyone who has tried the respected elixir.
Here’s hoping I get back next year when I return to Disney to watch my nephew’s Bergen County Stars football team win the Midgets Football Championship.