On tap at Plank Pizza, locally acclaimed dark lager retains debittered black malting and nutty dark-roast hop char, picking up dry coffee-stained espresso tones and tarry residue.

On guest tap at Last Minute Brewing, mild beechwood-smoked cured meat setting brings out distant salami, bacon and pastrami brining above powdered cocoa malting. In the can, creamy cocoa froth lathers peaty beechwood smoked cured meat spicing. A little too mild for rauchbier perfection – but getting close.

Lemon-candied blood orange puree rides above coriander-salted white wheat base of mildly acidic fruited gose. Tart Pez candy powdering consumes ‘simple sour’ New York moderation (as waltzing tangerine tang surfaces).