On tap at Poor Henry’s, brisk clean-watered light pilsner counters citric Cascade hops against wood-dried Chinook hops while placing corn-dried pilsner malts opposite sugary caramel malts. Floral-spiced lemony grapefruit tang lingers softly over dry pine resin. Summery and sessionable.
DEFIANT PEARL RIVER PILSNER
On tap at The Oath, pungent Bohemian-styled pilsner connects dank sourdough grain breading and dry cracked barley crisping to moderate Czech hop astringency, leaning on the more assertive side stylistically.
RIVER HORSE ROLY POLY PILS
“Classic Czech-styled pilsner” connects pungent Saaz-Hallertau hop bittering to corn-flaked mineral graininess, lightly creamed caramel malting, salted orange-lemon tartness and doughy yeast breading. Mild sulfuric skunking, in conjunction with sharply bitter hops and musky grains, will appeal to Eastern Euro pilsner lovers and Heineken fans.
ASSAWOMAN BAY BREW PUB & RESTAURANT
OCEAN CITY, MARYLAND
Right on Ocean City’s bustling bayfront in a large multifaceted complex, ASSAWOMAN BREW PUB & RESTAURANT features a cement-floored pub area, sizable restaurant space, second floor banquet room, kitschy tiki bar, windowed brew tank station and patio dining section. Within walking distance of the Civic Center, the yellow-hued frontage and red lettering hail from the days Shallow Water Pub & Restaurant existed.
Open for biz since 2015 (and closed 2017), my wife and I grabbed a seat at the sidewinding wood lacquered bar (with cool brewing coasters and stickers) for our late afternoon snack time, June ’16. Equipped with 36 tap handles (dedicated to its own brews plus several fine craft beers), plentiful wood furnishings and Edison lighting, the red-bricked barroom centers Assawoman Bay’s interior.
Classic reggae music plays in the background as I sample seven stylish elixirs. We move outside when the enjoyable Texas Toothpicks (beer-battered jalapeno and onions with sriracha mayo) arrive and the place fills up with the Monday dinner crowd.
For starters, Assawoman Bay’s initial release, Bayside Blonde, took a walk on the wild side with its minty cucumber adjunct adding a sage-like tease to the tropical mango-guava tang, candi-sugared yellow fruiting and lemon-soured pineapple juicing overriding mild diacetyl buttering.
Beechwood-smoked peat malts imbibed For Peat Sake Scottish Ale, a mildly nutty mocha-spiced moderation with wavered black cherry and black grape notions. Spiced rye malts, dry walnut and fig secured Red Head Rye Ale, a soft-toned medium body.
Instructive ‘peppercorn’ and garlic’ adjuncts provided a unique sidebar to Pony Swim IPA, where dry wood shavings tingle sharp Cascade-hopped orange and grapefruit spicing as well as caramelized pilsner malts.
Easygoing Angry Clown Brown Ale brought nuts, raisin and dark cherry to the fore as caramelized biscuit malts and coffee-stained Fuggle hop bittering gained latent hazelnut, fig and molasses undertones. Not as clearly defined, TransPorter traipsed dry cocoa above desolate vanilla and caramel tones.
The darkest ale, Commodore Decatur Black IPA, brought thriving black chocolate and dark cocoa overtones to dry grapefruit tartness while its damp-wooded hop char gained bitterness.
Unfortunately, the ever-popular Weizen Shine Hefe kicked right before we entered.
Though this copious venue may seem mainstream with its affluent sportsbar feel, family-styled pub dining and mall-like atmosphere, Assawoman Bay’s fine beer selection will capture everyone’s attention.
assawomanbaybrewing.com
BALLAST POINT MANGO EVEN KEEL SESSION ALE
On tap at Assawoman Bay Brew Pub, pronounced mango juiciness enhanced by candied orange sugaring and tangy pineapple-mango-guava tropicalia above honeyed pale malting. Loud mango sweetness and perfumed citrus-spiced continuance will appease any fruit ale lover. In the can, aromatic cotton-candied mango sweetness and honeyed cereal grain sugaring absorbed by oncoming orange-peeled grapefruit bittering and resinous pine nip.
DU CLAW FUNK BLUEBERRY CITRUS WHEAT
Large maple-sugared blueberry contingent sweetens above Cascade-hopped Meyer lemon tang, pale wheat malting and clover-honeyed Graham Cracker spine. Lacquered blueberry syruping thickens over time.
DC BRAU EL HEFE SPEAKS
Utilizing popular Weihenstephaner yeast strain, approachable limited edition hefeweizen (2016) gets washed-out after stylish lemony banana-clove sweetness turns tepidly tart and slightly soapy above soft white bread base.
SOUTHERN TIER TANGIER INDIA PALE ALE
On tap at Mahwah Bar & Grill, stylishly thin, but highly sessionable IPA, may lack pizzazz, but its lightly perfumed citric splash and resinous piney hop prickle will gain lighter thirsts attention. Spicy tangerine peel sweetness and lemony yellow grapefruit tang fade fast above dry pale malt spine.
DOGFISH HEAD BIERE DE PROVENCE SAISON
Lovely floral-herbal spicing buttresses lingered sweet ‘n sour citrus tang with “lavender, marjoram and bay leaf” adjuncts as well as chamomile, thyme, basil, saffron and fennel illusions above dry rye malting for culinary delight. Sugared lemon, key lime, mandarin orange and peach tones brighten the surface while nutmeg hints further sweeten lustrous saison.
FLYING DOG NUGGET IMPERIAL IPA
Sharply intense Nugget hop acidity fortifies herbal citrus astringency that’s softened by biscuity rye-pilsner malting. Lemony orange and grapefruit tangent never gains prominence over distant earthen graining.
FLYING DOG HIBISCUS GRAPEFRUIT RADLER
Soothing summertime softie offers dry grapefruit aromatics, subtle hibiscus flowering and tart mandarin orange tingle to dainty salted lemon bittering. Light pilsner-wheat malting underlines zesty citric finish.
ANDERSON VALLEY BRINEY MELON GOSE
World class gose combines briny sea-salted melon rind dryness with lightly acidic lemon lime pucker and brief cucumber-watered watermelon, cantaloupe, passionfruit, guava, kiwi and pomegranate pleasantries. Spritzy lemon-limed crisping retains sour fruit-brined acridity. A bit unspecific with its ‘melon’ influence, but lingeringly memorable.