Ill-defined dunkel bock tastes like cheap sharp cider. Tart green apple, sour lemon and oaken cherry provide mouth pucker as stylish fig-date conflux takes a backseat to oncoming green grape esters. Murky toasted nut influence and unwanted veggie snip further confound things.
UPLAND BAD ELMER’S PORTER
Thin ‘traditional brown porter’ with nut brown leanings affixes roasted nuttiness to musty mocha malting. Dry peanut-shelled cola and walnut resonance goes astray as murky black chocolate, dark cocoa and light-roast coffee illusions fail to ignite. Tertiary soy sauce, burnt toast and black tea nuances are spotty.
UPLAND CV PRE-PROHIBITION PILSNER
Enjoyable 2013 pilsner-styled pale lager (a.k.a. Champagne Velvet) celebrates Upland’s 15th anniversary with homage to Indiana’s ‘most beloved beer’ from defunct Terre Haute Brewery. Clear-yellowed German pils brings corn-sugared cereal graining to crisp lemon-soured spritz, mild grassy hop bittering and buttery pale malt toastiness. Musky yeast pungency reminiscent of Heineken.
FOUNTAIN SQUARE SOUL RIDE INDIA PALE ALE
Perfectly balanced nickel-hued IPA brings bright yellow and orange fruiting to creamy cookie dough malts. Sunny yellow grapefruit bittering takes the lead as orange-bruised tangerine, peach, pineapple, cantaloupe, nectarine, red apple, brown pear, mango, papaya and melon tang prospers. Furthermore, resinous piney hop freshness contrasts honeyed spruce juicing and chewy caramel sugaring in fine fashion. An underrated fave!
(BAYOU TECHE) LA 31 BOUCANEE SMOKED WHEAT ALE
Underwhelming cherrywood-smoked amber-hued moderation lacks body, depth and underlying sweet malt contrast of similarly styled German rauchbiers. Initial peat-seared cherrywood smokiness dries up quickly, leaving only mild campfire singe, distant barbecued meat char and evaporative cedar burn to complement delicate pilsner-Vienna malting.
SIERRA NEVADA NOONER PILSNER
Sensationally sessionable sunny-yellowed German-styled pils plies mellow floral-spiced IPA fruiting to mineral-grained biscuit malt base and grassy dry hop resin. Lemony orange tartness and piney grapefruit bitterness blend well with honeyed herbal nuances. Minor alcohol astringency at finish provides sharp bite.
COVINGTON STRAWBERRY ALE
(BAVARIA) LANDER BRAU
HERTOG JAN WEIZENER
Chaotic witbier from Netherlands proves to be richer, creamier and more flavorful than usual Belgian-styled wheat ales. Sweet-spiced banana, clove, coriander and vanilla illusions lie above sourdough yeast as ginger, ginseng and green tea herbage seeps in. Crisp Seltzer-like carbolic fizz perks up zesty citric-peeled bittering at sinewy fruit-spiced finish.
SMUTTLABS TAKEOVER AT AMBULANCE WORTH INVESTIGATING
Arguably New Hampshire’s best brewer, Portsmouth-originated Smuttynose Brewing has been building a solid reputation since opening in 1994. Now stationed at nearby Hampton, there recent experimental Smuttlabs draughts have found favor with the entire northeast coast. In February, AMBULANCE BREW HOUSE hosted several Smuttlabs elixirs reviewed below: