IRON HILL BREWERY – MAPLE SHADE

Inside a freestanding building at Kings Highway Commerce Center just outside Philadelphia in South Jersey’s Maple Shade lies the eighth IRON HILL franchise. Celebrating its second anniversary (July 21, 2011), this capacious red-bricked post with black awning and tinted windows was sojourned prior to crossing the Delaware River into north Philly.

An upscale modern facility with dark wood furnishings, central bar (with 3 TV’s), hanging lamps, back dining, and rear brew tanks succeeds as both a sportsbar and mall eatery. Plus, a newly marketed growler machine, hooked up to each tap line, takes the load of busy bartenders by automatically filling the half-gallon containers and adding carbon dioxide.

Exquisite food, described as ‘new American cuisine,’ truly sufficed. I had the fish soft taco, a delicious catfish dish draped with pineapple, red cabbage, and jalapeno slaw on top of a flour tortilla, while imbibing ten seasonal/ specialty ales (forgoing the five house beers tried at other Iron Hill sites). Lucky patrons may purchase favorite selections in bottled versions to take home.

Brewer Chris La Pierre stopped by to say hi as I quaffed his well-rounded, finely detailed offerings. On cask, subtle medium-bodied English-styled bitter, Anvil Ale, retained a dryer reedy musk, floral-hopped chamomile or green tea sway, mild pumpernickel lick and teensy tangerine twist.

The nitro version of staple Ironbound Ale, known as Kellerbound, brought soft citric-hopped bittering to creamy crystal-caramel malts and tertiary floral herbage.

Though the traditional German Pilsner seemed too mainstream, its dry-bodied maize astringency, citric sharpness, raw-honeyed bittering and buttery milling grains suit long-time lagerheads.

Three expressive Belgian-styled brews competed favorably against two German wheat beers. Light-bodied moderation, Belgian Wit, secured subtle banana-clove-coriander expectancy with candi-sugared Belgian yeast, unripe orange-tangerine tartness and herbal nuances.

More impressive, Belgian IPA coaxed sharp citric-spiced bittering above sweet crystal malting, lacing floral grapefruit-peeled pineapple-pear-apricot fruiting with parched bark-dried kindling to its rye-breaded backend.

Better still, tropical-fruited Cannibal, a strong Belgian pale ale, imparted a ripe banana-peach-pear conflux supplemented by white-peppered clove spicing, herbaceous splendor and sudden licorice notes.

On the Bavarian tip, delicate Hefeweizen melded clove spicing to lemony orange-banana tartness.

Softly perfume-hopped Hopfenweizen benefited from its mild summery effervescence, enhancing the expectant banana-clove-coriander theme with candied pineapple and tangy orange.

A complex double IPA, crafted to celebrate Iron Hill’s anniversary, totally ignited the early afternoon crowd. Brewed with citric Japanese-bred Sorachi Ace hops, the illustrious Second Rising plied sweet whiskey warmth to mild mocha malts, picking up sugared fig, fried banana, red grape, date, almondine, and lemony coconut illusions along the way.

Nearly as good, Kryptonite coerced a full-thrust hop-embittered assault out of brisk wood-seared fruit spicing, contrasting amiable caramel, butterscotch, marzipan and vanilla sweetening.

My wife and I left her parents’ ocean front Long Beach Island domicile to pick up her mother at Philadelphia International Airport, February 2012. Along the way, we ate ultimate nachos at Maple Shade’s Iron Hill while I consumed three previously untried dark ales plus one tantalizing Belgian-styled beaut.

Luca Brasi Milk Stout really killed! Its dark-roasted Sumatran coffee bean bittering perfectly contrasted the chewy burnt caramel sweetness and ancillary black chocolate, vanilla, Kahlua and raspberry notions seeping through the charred hop roast.

Nearly as great, Belgo Black (placing flagship Pig Iron Porter in Belgian yeast) brought smoked molasses malting to Belgian chocolate spicing and fig-sugared raisin-prune nuances.

India Black IPA competed favorably with its earthen peat malts gaining cappuccino, espresso and dark chocolate tendencies above dark-fruited cherry, blackberry and fig illusions as well as ashen wood smoke.

Buttery sweet Unassisted Tripel Strong Ale gathered plum-sugared fig spicing for bubble-gummy banana-clove pleasantries.

www.ironhillbrewery.com

HARPOON RICH & DAN’S RYE IPA

Hardened hop-heads will delight in sharp citric-spiced bittering and resinous hop pining as lemony orange-peeled grapefruit prickle stays firm. But caramelized rye profile and sugary caraway-seeded Vienna malting lack resolve and get washed out. Tertiary pineapple, tangerine and citron illusions undone by minor metal astringency. 2012 version retained dry-spiced citric hop perfuming and fresher piney spruce crispness.

PRISM BEER CO.

NORTH WALES, PENNSYLVANIA

Situated in the back of a tan stucco professional complex along the railroad tracks in rural North Wales (north of Philly and east of Lancaster), PRISM BEER CO. opened October 2010 (then closed December 2017 and Mc Allister Brewing moved in). Brewer Rob De Maria, a Philly native, gained experience brewing keg-only beers. Retaining his formative recipes, but using different yeast, the former corporate worker initially found creative release as a home brewer.

Sojourning to Prism for a few after dinner libations, mid-July 2011, I got to encounter several approachable, yet totally experimental, craft brews. Entering through yellowed wood doors to a ten-seated L-shaped bar (with centered TV and nearby jukebox), this diminutive spot also had three wood tables and a glass-walled rear section storing brew tanks. A bottling line ready to be assembled downstairs will increase volume for this splendid neighborhood dig.

Alongside eight diverse selections, I downed a Prism Dog frankfurter dubbed Purple (loaded with chipotle beef chili, red onions, and pineapple relish). Lighter thirsts will appreciate citric-bound Shady Blond, with its dry lemon spicing and tart blood orange snip. Buttery pale ale, Par Tea, brought a mild black tea bittering to grapefruit-peeled lemon zest and apple-spiced wining.

Another softie, Funk Zone, a peculiar dry-bodied Irish Ale, possessed a surprising cinnamon cider theme reinforced by a tart lemon-peeled lime pucker, piquant brettanomyces souring, and maple syrupy ginger-nutmeg-allspice innuendo.

Dry clover-honeyed Bitto Honey IPA placed woody-hopped bittering, apple-skinned citric tartness, and floral spicing beside crystal malted almond-marzipan sweetness.

Moving to the even more stylistically deviant darker ales, there were four intriguingly indefinable aberrations. Deliriously fascinating Death March Hopless Black Ale allowed a vibrant star anise entry to abet lemon-peeled green apple tartness and ascending red-black licorice illusions.

Though listed as a traditional Black & Tan linking Par Tea’s citric regalia to Death March’s licorice flourish, Flying Magic Zebra’s prominent star anise luxuriance nullified any expectant mocha insistence. Also independently freewheeling, Love Is Evol Brown Ale overwhelmed its advertised strawberry tartness with plentiful jalapeno peppering as well as stove-burnt coffee, dark chocolate, and walnut illusions. Another stylistic departure, Insana Stout, hid bacon fat, coffee beans, and wild berries beneath soy-sauced smoked chocolate.

At Four Points By Sheraton, May ’13, refreshingly smooth Felony Imperial IPA brought citric-pined oily hop resin to maize-flaked backdrop, leaving ripe grapefruit and lemon fruiting.  

Prism’s maniacally investigative offerings will captivate adventurous beer hounds, but nonchalant neophytes need not apply.

www.prismbeer.com

JOBOY’S BREWPUB

We secretly dined at JoBoy's Brew Pub: Here's a review for our IncognEATo  series | Local News | lancasteronline.com

MANHEIM, PENNSYLVANIA

On my mid-July 2011 overnight perusal of northern Philly and the outlying Lancaster area, the most accessible brewpub fare came from Manheim-based JOBOY’S. Located in the rustic rural hillside on Main Street at the historic Summy House just down the road from Pennsylvania’s Renaissance Fair (housing the smallish Swashbuckler Brewery), cozily wood-furnished JoBoy’s brings casual country comfort to local denizens, wayward road warriors, and inquiring ‘brewpies’ (groupie-like beer geeks).

Married owners Jeff and Jo Harless unveiled this intimate joint on April Fools Day, 2010 (closing August 2019). But the beers are no joke. Besides Jeff’s six delectable oblations (prepared with help by chef, Mike ‘Tug’ Mc Gall), I seriously enjoyed the terrific Southern-styled smoked pork sandwich with fried hush puppies.

A crooked red brick walkway from the rear parking lot leads to a slanted gray front porch. Upon entering the antiquated 1879 hotel tavern, a low ceiling 12-seated right bar with four booths welcomes patrons. One TV at the bar and another up front kept several bar drinkers entertained while a family-styled backroom and adjoining dining space suit the quieter supper crowd. Vintage provincial pictures, farm equipment, quilts, and antiques don the walls.

This mid-afternoon, I got introduced to a few well-rounded brews that leaned to the lighter side without getting commonplace.

For a zesty opener, Raspberry Summer Cream Ale brought judicious raspberry-seeded tartness to wheat-honeyed sweetness and sugary bubblegum fruitiness.

Next, moderate-bodied German Wheat sauntered by with its simple banana-clove expectancy.

Spicy red-fruited Manheim Red saddled its candi-sugared sweetness with an India Pale Ale-like grapefruit-peeled orange, apricot, and lemon meringue zing.

Briskly fruited American IPA contrasted mild floral-hopped wood dryness and grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering against lively apple, peach and pear illusions overriding biscuit-y caramel malts.

Anyone with a taste for a proper British bitter should welcome JoBoy’s ESB, an endearing dry body gathering mineral-grained pumpernickel-rye breading, sun-drenched dried fruit astringency, and mild herbal traces.

Easygoing JoBoy’s Robust Porter finished off my day with a sedately soft-tongued goodbye, draping black cherry over creamed coffee and dark chocolate.

Fine beer and authentic barbecue readied by ‘good old boys busting their asses.’ What more could a thirsty carnivore ask for? This enticing niche-like ‘destination restaurant’ has been jam-packed since its advent.

www.joboysbrewpub.com