Lingering grapefruit rind and orange pith bittering given resinous pine hop lacquer, sharp juniper bite and musky herbage to contrast less prominent pale malt spicing. Fresh-watered minerality provides clean backdrop for lingering citric bitterness.
PIPEWORKS ESCAPE FROM IPA
On tap at Ambulance, tantalizing tropical fruiting sits atop creamy crystal malting and dankly pined Galaxy-Centennial-Equinox hop bittering of durable West Coast ‘triple’ IPA. Zesty pineapple, grapefruit, orange, tangerine and mango tang retains brisk juiciness.
NORTH COUNTRY OL’ TWO-NINER DOUBLE IPA
Brewed in conjunction with Pittsburgh Penguins hockey legend, Phil Bourque, musky cologne-perfumed orange oiling dampens bitter grapefruit rind prominence and pine-lacquered herbal snip.
NORTH COUNTRY THANKS DAAAN BELGIAN WHEAT
Named after Pittsburgh Penguins hockey sportscaster, Dan Potash, underwhelming soft-toned witbier needs mildly perfume-spiced orange peel tartness and latent white peppering to register more firmly above subdued dried wheat murk.
FLYING DOG JALAPENO WHITE ALE
Pleasant jalapeno-influenced moderation. Modest green jalapeno peppering heats up salty lemon spritz and stylish coriander-spiced orange peel zesting. Subtle bell pepper and chili pepper illusions deepen jalapeno-tinged citrus finish.
(HARPOON) UFO HUCKLEBERRY
Sweet ‘n sour blueberry (huckleberry) tartness spreads across light white wheat malting of fizzy summertime moderation. Lemony gooseberry, curacao orange and white grape tang plays backup to juicy blueberry invigoration. Easygoing session ale.
VOODOO GRAN MET TRIPEL
‘Delicate’ soft-tongued tripel (with astoundingly quiet 9.5% ABV) needs richer malt profile and more up-front resonation as tart beet-sugared crystal malting never sweetens enough. Dryer than most stylistic competitors with daintily candied Belgian yeast influence and blanched pilsner malts needing a push forward. Mildly perfumed banana tartness pick up desolately spiced pineapple, mango and orange tropicalia.
VOODOO KILLAPILZ
Updated version of brewer’s Pilzilla (circa 2017) relies more on earthen tea-like herbal musk than dry piney grapefruit sustenance. At the finish, grassy hop astringency upends tart lemongrass spurt (and subdued leafy foliage).
ALESMITH MOUNT CRUSHMORE CREAM ALE
On tap at Ambulance, dry golden-paled moderation places mild corn-dried grain malts next to brisk grassy hop spicing and latent herbal gourd tinge. Easygoing sessionable fodder.
BARCADE – EAST VILLAGE
MANHATTAN, NEW YORK
In the center of St. Mark’s Place in Manhattan’s East Village, the fourth Barcade franchise opened during 2015. Taking the space once occupied by iconic New York record shop, Kim’s Underground, Paul Kermezian’s latest arcade-laden beer pub provides the same fine craft beer and wine as its other idiosyncratic locations.
Retaining the crudely rustic black-walled interior and exposed pipes of its predecessor, Lower East Side’s Barcade features 20-plus taps at its right side 12-seat lamp-lit bar. A central blackboard lists current beer selections.
On my terse half-hour stopover, October ’17, I discovered Great South Bay Splashing Pumpkin (reviewed in Beer Index). On deck were a few brews I hadn’t yet tried, such as Barrier Tanto, Shmaltz Hannukah in July in Napa, Du Claw Collusion, Chelsea Pumpkin Pie and Kelso Berliner Weisse with Cranberry.
barcadestmarks.com
THE BRUERY MASH & COCONUT BOURBON BARLEYWINE
On tap at Ambulance, lovely bourbon-barreled barleywine fuses toasted coconut sweetness into enchanting dessert treat (with well-hidden 13% ABV). Brown-sugared molasses, spiced toffee, caramelized pecan, almondine, marshmallow and vanilla illusions receive plentiful bourbon-sweetened coconut glaze.
OMNIPOLLO NOA PECAN MUD CAKE STOUT
Luxurious Mud Cake-designed dessert treat features candied pecan sweetness and dark chocolate syruping. Smoked mocha malting unveils ancillary hazelnut coffee, creamed vanilla, chocolate cake, cacao nibs, Kahlua, toasted coconut and burnt marshmallow illusions. In the deep recess, black cherry-pureed red grape and plum tones increase overall complexity.
