Light-bodied Chet’s Pale Ale brought honeyed red-orange-yellow fruiting to floral spiced whims for familiar sessionable alacrity. Equally affable German-styled moderation, 6 Balls Alt, prodded dried fig and grapefruit with light peppered hop bittering and toasted caramel sugaring.
FIREFLY HOLLOW BREWING COMPANY
BALLOU’S RESTAURANT & WINE BAR
BRANFORD, CONNECTICUT
In the rustic shoreline village of Branford just down the road from the Long Island Sound, BALLOU’S RESTAURANT & WINE BAR opened May ’12. Set inside a tan colonial edifice with white trim, white columns and roomy front deck, this homey establishment is owned by married couple, Steve Kaye and Debbie Ballou, whose humble beginnings include being a busboy and waitress at IHOP. Across the street from boutique-styled Indian Neck Liquor Store, Ballou’s Branford location competes favorably with their initial award-winning Guilford establishment.
Upon entering, the cozy two-room brown-walled space features a 10-seat bar (with 16 tap handles and small TV), 15-table dining room, pristine walnut furnishings and several wine racks. Though specializing in desserts, coffee, cheeses, fondues, panninis and flatbread pizza, its assorted comfort foods go well with the fine hand-picked wine selection that serve as Ballou’s calling card.
Nevertheless, seasoned beer geeks will find ‘beer guy’ Jeremy Antunes’ craft draft offerings extremely appealing as well.
Visited January ’14 just hours after a heavy blizzard, Antunes tends bar and chats up a storm this snowy afternoon while introducing two new brews. The first, Thimble Island India Pale Ale, crafted a few streets away from this humble pub, brought lively stone-fruited spicing to sharp grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering and finished with a juniper-hopped wood parch.
Another local offering from southbound Stratford, Two Roads Route Of All Evil Black Ale allowed wood-smoked chocolate seeding and charcoal-burnt hop bittering to anchor plastique apple-skinned grapefruit-mango-papaya tropicalia. (Full reviews in Beer Index)
Happily, the food was just as worthy as the beer and wine choices. Creamy lobster bisque, chipotle chicken pannini and Turkish goat-cheesed flatbread pizza (with dried fig, prosciutto and field greens) were wholly enjoyed.
Anyone with champagne taste on a beer budget or large expense account will appreciate Ballou’s spirited menu and close attention to detail.
THIMBLE ISLAND INDIA PALE ALE
On tap at Ballou’s, brusque hop-fruited medium-to-full body leaves crisply embittered impression on tongue. Bountiful grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering picks up brisk juniper bite to sharpen its wood-parched citric finish. Peach, apple and pear undertones sweeten almond-sugared crystal malting.
PIES & PINTS PIZZERIA AND PUB
MIDDLEBURY, CONNECTICUT
In the northernmost New Haven small town of Middlebury, PIES & PINTS rule the roost. Boasting the happy slogan “Something For Everyone,” this glorified pizza joint offers take-out food, gourmet pizzas, homemade flatbreads, seperate ice cream parlor, three distinct dining areas and great draft beer selections from near and wide.
Open 2011, Pies & Pints’ gold-hued white-trimmed exterior features a small canopied patio space while the interior gets broken into a tan-walled open-kitchen dine-in pizza station, rustic left side barroom and hearth-warmed back lounge. Leather and wood furnishings fill out its entirety while antique fans, copper-pressed ceiling tile and an olden piano provide elegant antiquity to the saloon (with three serving stations containing 20-plus beers).
Stain-glass windows, five private booths, four TV’s and nifty collectibles crowd the space as well.
On our initial perusal, my wife and I get situated at the long rectangular 12-stool mahogany bar for lunch on this brisk Saturday at noon in early February ’14. We share a delicious eggplant parmegan pizza while the couple down a few seats enjoy calzone, pasta and salad.
I quaff three hoppy delights and one local winter ale before heading north to four previously unexplored brewpubs that just opened for business within the past two years (Manchester’s Top Shelf; Bloomfield’s Back East; Bristol’s Firefly Hollow; East Windsor’s Broad Brook).
Dry-hopped Belgian pale ale, Ommegang Hop House, placed grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering above candi-sugared sweetness and floral white peppering. New England Supernaut IPA brought woody dryness to sharply perfumed floral hop resin and tangy grapefruit-orange juicing.
Better still, Evil Twin Molotov Cocktail provided barleywine warmth to orange-bruised cognac sweetness and exotic tropicalia for a devilishly complex Imperial IPA.
Locally brewed Back East Winterfest Ale added raw-honeyed herbal spicing to wintry fig-dried pine nut, fern and spruce notions. (Full reviews at Beer Index.)
By St. Patrick’s Day ’14, Pies & Pints will open a brewpub in nearby Waterbury. It’ll serve six proprietary beers alongside thirty well-chosen outside tapped selections. So the future’s so bright…
(COTTRELL) 1757 GEORGE WASHINGTON BEER
On tap at 1249 Wine Bar, mainstream golden amber American pale ale from original 1757 presidential recipe stays thin. Light caramel toasting and soft-toned grassy hop astringency pick up neutral celery watering.
NARRAGANSETT AUTOCRAT COFFEE MILK STOUT
On tap at 1249 Wine Bar, limited edition 2014 medium body combines Natty’s bittersweet milk stout with Autocrat dark-roasted coffee. Brusque hop-charred coffee bittering cuts thru barley-roasted black chocolate easement. Espresso, cappuccino and latte undertones pick up lactic sugaring. Bottled version: creamily bittersweet coffee roast loses luster by arid mocha finish. Fudgy black chocolate, dark cocoa, vanilla, espresso, cappuccino and mocha latte illusions fade in the distance.
EVIL TWIN MOLOTOV COCKTAIL
On tap at Pies & Pints, ‘craziest’ Evil Twin yet brings elegant cognac warmth to ripe IPA-fruited barleywine boozing (13% ABV). Slight alcohol burn ensues as orange and cherry bruised tang spreads across ruby red grapefruit, candied apple, peach marmalade, syrupy pear, nectarine and honeydew illusions as well as tropical pineapple, mango and lychee exotica. Resinous pine snip lacquers fruitful treasure. Highly recommended.
NEW ENGLAND SUPERNAUT IPA
OMMEGANG HOP HOUSE
TWO ROADS ROUTE OF ALL EVIL BLACK ALE
Cool devilish artwork outdoes nebulous ‘black ale’ styling, but not by much. As expected, dark-roasted chocolate seeding and subtle tropical fruiting embittered by piney beechwood char above toasted hop spine. Apple-skinned grapefruit, pineapple and mango undertones pervade plastique black licorice remnant and slim herbal passage, leading to a wavered charcoal-burnt chocolate fondue finish.
STONY CREEK (860) INDIA PALE ALE
Sessionable dry-bodied moderation retains deeper amber hue and ‘softer first note’ than Connecticut brewers’ similarly styled (203) IPA. Sunny citric fruiting stays firm atop piney dark-roasted hop bittering, crisp tobacco-leafed barley toasting and brisk mineral-grained watering. Floral pineapple, grapefruit and orange tang recedes slowly alongside sugary crystal malting, losing steam to tinny phenol astringency.